Friday, June 21, 2019

Cherokee Legend, and How Strawberries Can Save Your Marriage!

As today is the first day of summer, I want to share the Cherokee Legend of the Strawberry:

The story goes that First Man and First Woman had an argument, in which the First Woman ran away, never to return. After First Man's temper calmed, he began to worry and miss First Woman. First Man prayed to Creator to give her something to eat and to slow her down, so he could tell her how sorry he was. Creator placed a patch of blackberries along her path, but the briars tore at her soft skin, and she continued to run away.

First Man prayed to Creator again to give her something to eat and to slow her down, so he could tell her how much he loved her. Creator reached down and picked the most delicate white flowers and some berries, in which he pricked his finger on the thorns. Drops of blood turned the berries large, bright red, and heart-shaped. He then placed the white flowers and berries along First Woman's path. 

When First Woman saw the delicate flowers and bright red berries, she stopped to enjoy their beauty. As she saw no thorns, she tasted one of the berries. They were so sweet that she stopped to eat more. She saw that the berries were heart-shaped and began to think of the sweet things First Man had done for her in the past. She began looking at the pure white flowers and began to remember how pure her love for First Man had been, and began to cry. She began to pray to Creator to bring her husband to her, so she could tell him how sorry she was and how much she loved him. Her husband appeared and they hugged, exchanged loving words, and forgave each other. 

This is why the Cherokee always have fresh whole strawberries, jam, and pictures in their home to remind them not to argue with one another. Their heart-shape reminds them that if they do slip and say something hurtful, to pray, ask for forgiveness, and say loving words, just like First Man and First Woman.

So, there you have it, strawberries make a happy marriage! Why not run out and pick up a bunch today, eat them whole, like First Man and First Woman, or do what I do, make Thomas Keller's "Strawberry Sorbet," from his cookbook, Bouchon. This luscious strawberry sorbet is so easy and just as satisfying as ice cream, but without any guilt! Keller suggests serving this sorbet simply, in a bowl with no garnish. It's pure perfection, and the perfect way to start your summer!


Bouchon Strawberry Sorbet

Makes about 1 quart.

Ingredients:

2 pounds fresh strawberries
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Directions:

Combine the strawberries, sugar, and lime juice in a blender and blend to a puree. Strain to remove the seeds. Refrigerate until cold.

Transfer to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Special thanks to Bonita Beautiful Meadowlark Sanders for sharing the "Cherokee Legend of the Strawberry!"

Saturday, May 4, 2019

The Pastry War, Maximilian, and the History of French-Mexican Cuisine

In 2010, The United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) listed traditional French and Mexican cuisines on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. This is the first time that a nation's cuisine has made the list. While any good foodie knows the immense importance of French cuisine, I am glad that Mexican cuisine is finally getting it's due! Mexican cuisine, built on a foundation of corn, beans, and chili peppers, is a fusion of indigenous Mesoamerican and European cuisines (especially Spanish) following the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire in the early 1500s. But did you know that the French have influence as well? 

Following Mexico's independence from Spain (1810-1821), in which immigration was previously prohibited by Spanish authorities, the first wave of French immigrants arrived in Veracruz in the 1830s. At the time, the Mexican economy was weak and had many loans from France and were default on all of them! Many incidences of French immigrants losing their lives and/or property due to inebriated Mexican officials and criminals occurred. After a report by restaurant owner Monsieur Remontel that an assault on his pastry supply valued at 60,000 pesos had occurred, the French demanded 600,000 pesos for alleged losses of property. Mexico refused to pay. So, in 1838 a French fleet began a blockade of Mexico's east coast seaports, launching war. French troops invaded Veracruz and defeated the Mexican troops. After British intervention, Mexico finally agreed to pay the 600,000 pesos thus ending the war. This little known page from Mexico's history was dubbed by a French journalist as "The Pastry War."

Thirty years later, in July of 1861, Mexico's President Benito Jaurez suspended interest payments to all foreign countries, angering their major creditors, specifically Spain, France, and Britain. Napoleon wanted military intervention in order to ensure European access to Latin American markets. On October 31, the three European powers signed the Treaty of London to unite their efforts to receive payments from Mexico. On December 8, British, Spanish, and French fleets arrived in Veracruz. However, when the British and Spanish realized that France planned to seize all of Mexico (known as The French Intervention in Mexico), they quickly withdrew. The French fought many battles with Mexican troops, including their defeat in the Battle of Puebla in 1862, becoming the Cinco de Mayo holiday we love today. With more and more French troops arriving, they finally seized the capital. In 1863, backed by Napoleon, Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian (Emperor Maximiliano of Mexico) was proclaimed Emperor of Mexico. In 1864, the new emperor along with his wife Princess Charlotte of Belgium (Empress Carlota of Mexico), arrived in Veracruz to "wild enthusiasm" from the crowds. 

Maximilian and Carlota chose their seat in Mexico City and were known for lavish feasts morning, noon, and night. Upon Carlota's insistence, French cuisine was always on the menu. Following the Emperor and Empress, French cuisine was embraced by the upper classes, promoting "la comida afrancescada" or "Frenchified cooking." Unfortunately for Maximilian and Carlota, their reign did not last long. After the end of the American Civil War, the US increased diplomatic pressure to persuade Napoleon to end support of Maximilian and withdraw French troops, which he did in 1866. Carlota fled to Europe to seek assistance for her husband where she had a nervous breakdown and lived the rest of her life in seclusion, perhaps in a mental facility in Belgium. Maximilian was executed in Mexico on June 19, 1867. 

During the years that followed, French influences permeated Mexican cuisine, incorporating French terms and sauces to the Mexican culinary repertoire. In addition, native ingredients worked exceedingly well with French techniques. Although many may believe these dishes are new to Mexican cuisine, they are actually offshoots of the French-Mexican culinary fusion of the 19th century! Today, it is estimated that there are approximately 10,000 French Mexicans in the state of Veracruz alone! If you are at all interested in the fusion of French-Mexican cuisine, or would like a sophisticated take on the flavors of Mexico with a French twist, I strongly recommend making "Mushroom Crepes with Poblano Cream Sauce!" It is so absolutely delicious! As this recipe incorporates French and Mexican techniques (both of which can be time-consuming), plan to make some of the parts ahead of time, e.g., crepes and sauce a day or two in advance. I promise you'll love it! Vive la France! Viva la Mexico!


Mushroom Crepes with Poblano Cream Sauce

Serves 6

Ingredients:
For the crepes
2 cups whole milk
3 large eggs
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, cooled
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups sifted all purpose flour
Additional melted butter, for cooking the crepes

For the sauce
6 large poblano chiles (For more on poblanos, see For the Love of Poblanos!)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup chopped white onion
1 small garlic clove, minced
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups warm whole milk
1/2 cup fresh whipping cream
1 cup coarsely grated queso manchego, Muenster cheese (about 4 ounces)
3 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 fresh corn kernels (if not available, use frozen or even can)
Fresh cilantro sprigs, for garnish

For the mushroom filling
1/3 cup canola oil
2 cups white onions, chopped
1 pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps thinly sliced (a combination of wild mushrooms works very well here, but remember to never eat the shiitake stems - they are too tough!)
2 tablespoons minced epazote or fresh cilantro
4 teaspoons minced garlic

Directions:
For the crepes (Can be made 2 days ahead, wrap, and chill.)
Blend milk, eggs, 2 tablespoons melted butter, and salt in blender 5 seconds. Add flour, 1/2 cup at a time, blending batter until smooth after each addition. Let rest 1-2 hours. Reblend batter 5 seconds before using.

Heat a nonstick skillet or crepe pan (see Gadgets) over medium-high heat until hot. Coat the pan lightly with butter and pour in about 1/4 cup of the batter. Lift the pan from the heat, tilting and rotating, to allow the batter to spread evenly. Return the pan to the heat and allow to cook until dry on top and lightly browned on the edges. Loosen the edges with a plastic or rubber spatula and flip the crepe over using your fingers or spatula, then cook the other side for about 15 seconds, or until lightly browned. (For pictures, see Crazy Crepe Man!) Remove the crepe to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the crepes as they are cooked.

For the sauce (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill. Whisk over medium heat until just warm before continuing.)
Char chiles directly over gas flame or in broiler until blackened on all sides. Enclose in paper bag or bowl covered in plastic wrap for 10 minutes. Peel, seed, and thinly slice chiles. Set aside. (See Techniques)

Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion; saute until soft, about 2 minutes. Add garlic; stir 30 seconds. Whisk in flour and continue to cook 1 minute. Whisk in warm milk and bring to boil, whisking constantly. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 5 minutes. Pour sauce into blender. Add cream and half of roasted chiles (reserve remaining chiles for garnish). Blend sauce until smooth. Season with salt (at least 1 tsp or so) and pepper. Set aside.

For the mushroom filling
Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and saute until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms, epazote or cilantro, and garlic. Saute until mushrooms are brown and mushroom liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Finishing the dish
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Brush a baking sheet with some canola oil or line with parchment. Arrange 1 crepe, brown spots up, on work surface. Place 2 packed tablespoons filling in the center. Fold crepe in half, then half again, forming a triangle. Place filled crepe on prepared sheet. Repeat with the remaining crepes until filling is gone. (Can be filled and folded 1 day ahead. Cover and chill until ready to use.)

Pour 1/4 cup sauce into the center of 6 ovenproof plates. Top each with 2 filled crepes. Pour 1/4 cup sauce over. Sprinkle evenly with the cheese. Bake until the cheese melts, about 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons canola oil in heavy medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add reserved poblano chiles and corn; saute until heated through, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle with salt.

Garnish crepes with sauteed chiles and corn, then cilantro sprigs, and serve. Mmmmm!

Recipe adapted from Bon Appetit and Mexconnect.com.

Friday, April 12, 2019

Eat Like an Empress! (or Emperor)

"Crab imperial" is a classic American dish popular along the east coast. Although it's not the healthiest of dishes, it is luxurious and I love it! The original crab imperial was created in the late 19th century at Thompson's Sea Girt House, located in Baltimore, Maryland. It was a gratin of back-fin lump crab in a mixture of diced onions, green bell pepper, and pimiento, all bound together in a thick cream sauce (bechamel) and topped with a slather of mayonnaise. This version remained very popular until the opening of Crisfield's Seafood Restaurant in Silver Spring, Maryland in 1945. It was then that Lillian Landis (matriarch of the family) created Crisfield's version, called "Imperial Crab," which remains popular to this day. After Lillian complained that the original version of crab imperial was too heavy and that the other ingredients masked the gently sweet flavor of the crab, she created her version which consists of back-fin lump crab lightly bound together with Hellman's mayonnaise, flecked with minced green bell pepper, minced onion, and a topping of fresh bread crumbs. Although I have yet to visit Crisfield's, I plan on popping in the next time I'm in the area to check out the old-timey decor and try their Imperial Crab. FYI: I've heard their crab cakes are awful, referred to as tasting like sawdust!

Until then, I can always make my own version of crab imperial! Like Crisfield's, I like the crab meat to be the star, so I don't use green bell pepper, pimiento, or even add any onion. Instead, I gently fold together the crab with a seasoned mixture of Hellman's mayonnaise and spices, then instead of stuffing the mixture into crab shells or baking dishes, I mound the mixture on large portobello mushroom caps, top each with buttered bread crumbs and bake until golden. Delicious! I serve each with a lemon wedge and a small spinach salad on the side. (A glass of Champagne is also nice!) The result is a simple and luscious meal that, thanks to the portobello and spinach, somehow seems healthier and more modern. This is an excellent recipe for company, to be reserved only for people you really like!

Crab Imperial Stuffed Portobellos with Spinach Salad

Serves 4
*This recipe can easily be halved to make a romantic dinner for 2. Prepare for kisses!*

Ingredients:
For the Crab Imperial
1 pound jumbo lump crab meat, picked over for any shells or cartilage
1/2 cup Hellman's mayonnaise
1 large egg
1 teaspoon Sherry wine
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper sauce (e.g., Tabasco)
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard (e.g., Grey Poupon)
1/2 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/4 cup minced Italian flat leaf parsley
1/4 cup bread crumbs
Melted butter, about 1 tablespoon or enough to moisten the bread crumbs
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season breadcrumbs
Paprika, to sprinkle on top

For the Portobellos, Salad, and Serving
4 large portobello mushroom caps, 4-5 inches in diameter
Extra virgin olive oil, to drizzle on mushrooms
12 ounces baby spinach, tough stems removed
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 lemon, cut in wedges

Directions:
For the Crab Imperial
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, egg, Sherry, cayenne pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, Old Bay Seasoning, flour, and parsley until smooth. With a spatula, carefully fold in the crab meat, trying not to break up the pieces. Set aside.


In a small bowl, mix together the bread crumbs and melted butter. (I find the back of a spoon very efficient to help smoosh it together.)  Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

For the Portobellos
Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Place each portobello cap, stem side up, on the baking sheet and drizzle with some olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper.


Top each evenly with the crab imperial mixture. Sprinkle each stuffed portobello with some of the moistened bread crumbs. (Use as much or as little as you prefer, but remember not to let it taste like sawdust!) Sprinkle the tops with paprika, to give it some color and extra flavor.


Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden and bubbly. Remove and let sit for a few minutes before serving. It's hot!

For the Salad and Serving
Whisk together the tablespoon of lemon juice and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss enough of the dressing to lightly coat the spinach leaves.

Place one stuffed portobello on each of four serving plates. Divide the salad evenly next to the stuffed portobellos. Add a lemon wedge and prepare for an excellent dining experience!