On the Fourth Day, Let There be Pastrami

St. Patrick's Day and the arrival of Spring mean one thing at my house, homemade pastrami! Pastrami is smoked corned beef that originated from Central Europe and was brought to America by Romanian Jews in the late 19th century. Kosher butcher Sussman Volk, who had immigrated to New York from Lithuania, claimed to have created the first pastrami sandwich in 1887. Volk had inherited the recipe from a Romanian friend in exchange for storing the man's luggage while he was out of the country. (Don't you use your luggage when travelling?) However, this is disputed by legendary Katz's Delicatessen in New York City, who opened in 1888 and claim to be the first. I guess it doesn't really matter since Katz's is still going strong and Volk is just a memory in time.

My husband was the first to discover this recipe for "Close to Katz's Pastrami" from amazingribs.com. You can check the recipe out there, although it seems a lot more informative and might scare away a pastrami novice, so I've simplified it here to coax you to try it. In fact, I have made a few changes. Instead of smoking the corned beef at 225 degrees, I keep it at 250 degrees. I don't make my own corned beef either, rather I buy it at the store in those cryovac packages, which grocers everywhere are marking down post-St.Patrick's Day. In addition, I recommend making more than one, since it takes a lot of your time! Don't worry, it freezes very well. 

You need to start the process 3 days before you plan on serving. The first day you soak it refrigerated in cold water to help remove excess salt. The second day to pat dry, apply the dry rub, and refrigerate overnight. The third day you smoke it for about 5-6 hours, cool, and refrigerate. And finally, on the fourth day you steam it for approximately 2 hours, then eat! It may seem like a lot of work, but it's so good, you just might become verklempt!

Close to Katz's Pastrami

Makes approximately 4-5 sandwiches. (I like mine with mustard, pastrami, Swiss cheese, and coleslaw on toasted rye. Pickle on the side.)

Ingredients:

For the Pastrami

1, 4 lb uncooked corned beef brisket

4 tablespoons freshly coarse ground black pepper

2 tablespoons coriander powder

1 teaspoon mustard powder

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 tablespoon paprika

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons onion powder

For Smoking and Steaming

Smoker or Grill (I use my beloved Weber, see Gadgets.)

Disposable aluminum drip pan (I use the cheap ones from the grocer for roasting.)

Entire bag of charcoal

4-8 ounces wood chips, soaked in water (I like cherry wood.)

Steamer basket or steamer insert (I use the cheap ones from the grocer and remove the center handle/lifter thingy.)

Directions:

Day 1: Remove corned beef from package, rinse, and throw away the spice packet. Trim excessive fat off the corned beef and any membrane that might remain. (Leave at least 1/8-inch fat on it!) Place the corned beef in a large pot. Cover it with cold water and refrigerate overnight.

Day 2: Remove the corned beef from the water and pat dry with paper towels. Mix together the pepper, coriander, mustard, brown sugar, paprika, garlic and onion powders. Rub all over the corned beef, cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Day 3: Prepare a charcoal grill or smoker for low heat (250 degrees). Place an aluminum drip pan half full of water in the center of the fire bed. Sprinkle some of the soaked wood chips on the coals. Place the corned beef, fat side up, on the grill rack over the drip pan. Insert a grill thermometer, see Gadgets. Cover and smoke the corned beef, maintaining 250 degrees, and sprinkling with wood chips/charcoal occasionally until it reaches an internal temperature of 160 degrees. Wrap with foil and return to the grill until it reaches an internal temperature of 195 degrees. Remove from grill, let cool slightly, and refrigerate overnight. 

Day 4: Set up your steamer, or bring a couple inches of water in a large pot to a simmer, insert steam basket. (Tips: If you don't have a steamer, you can wad up foil to hold the now pastrami out of the water. I place a piece of foil between the steamer and pastrami to contain excess mess.) Cover and steam the pastrami over medium-low/low heat, adding water if necessary, until it reaches an internal temperature of 203 degrees, approximately 1 1/2-2 hours. 

Let rest on a cutting board for at least 10 minutes before thinly slicing against the grain.

Mazel Tov!

Time for some Sole-Searching

Sole is a group of flatfish from European coastal waters that can be somewhat hard to locate here in the US. Lucky for me, I have a great fishmonger that stocks it regularly and especially during lent. Lent is a great time to be purchasing fish, as grocers overstock and sell them at almost rock bottom prices. When looking for sole, seek out Dover sole. Dover sole is the most esteemed of the sole family, with a delicate sweet flavor and thin yet firm fillets that hold together very well during cooking. According to Fish Market: A Cookbook for Selecting and Preparing Seafood, by Kathy Hunt, the ancient Romans loved this delicate oval flatfish and called it "solea jovi," meaning "Jupiter's sandal," referring to the king of their gods, Jupiter. Sole is a reference to the Old English term sole or solu, meaning shoe, sandal, or sole. In addition, Dover sole were named after Dover, England, because it was the fishing port that landed the most sole in the 19th century.

This recipe for "Sole with Spinach (Sole aux Epinards)" from My French Kitchen, by Joanne Harris and Fran Warde, is simplicity at its best. The slight bitterness of the wilted greens contrasts nicely to the buttery sweetness of the sole and the creamy shallot sauce is to die for! Not only is this recipe fast and easy, it is perfect for a simple yet elegant multi-course menu. I would start the meal with a small starter, like a small bowl or teacup of Spring Pea Soup or Carrot and Cumin Soup, or a tiny plate of Stuffed Mushroom Caps. I would then dazzle my guests with this recipe and a crusty baguette. For dessert, a beautiful small bowl of Bouchon Strawberry Sorbet or Ginger, Lemon, and Mint Granita will leave you and your guests extremely gratified! Now it's time for you to do some sole-searching!

Sole with Spinach (Sole aux Epinards)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

8 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 shallots, diced

Drizzle of olive oil

12 sole fillets (Sizes may vary, so approximately 1 1/2 pounds for 4 people and 2 1/4 pounds for 6 people should suffice.)

2 pounds spinach, trimmed and washed

1/3 cup heavy cream

Sea salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Lemon juice, to serve

Directions:

Heat the broiler. Lightly oil the broiler rack and put it in the broiler for a few minutes to heat.

Meanwhile, heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan, add the shallots, and cook gently for 10 minutes over low heat. Do not allow them to color.

Twist the sole fillets and place them on the heated broiler rack - you should hear them sizzle as they touch it. Broil for 4 to 5 minutes, them remove them. Turn the broiler off.

Place the spinach in a large saucepan with 3 tablespoons of water and cook about 3 minutes, stirring frequently. The spinach should soften and warm but retain its shape and texture. (If it wilts more, that's okay.) Put the spinach in a lightly buttered baking dish or oven safe platter and arrange the sole fillets on top. Place in the turned-off broiler to keep warm. 

Add the cream, salt, and pepper to the shallots and bring to a simmer. Cut the remaining 7 tablespoons of butter into small pieces and whisk a few pieces at a time into the simmering cream. When all the butter is added you should have a glossy sauce. Pour the sauce over the spinach and sole and finish with a squeeze of lemon. Serve immediately!

Mardis Gras and the Best Jambalaya!

Mardis Gras (aka., Fat Tuesday, Shrove Tuesday) is February 21, marking the last day of fatty food indulgences before Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. While some people around the world celebrate the day eating pancakes, I prefer a delicious bowl of jambalaya! I first acquired a taste for this spicy sausage and seafood-laden dish from a friend in college who made a batch along with freshly baked bread every Sunday. Although I think he used Zatarain's and a tube of Pillsbury, it was always a good time! Just like chili is in Texas, jambalaya is classic Louisiana party food, making it the perfect choice for Mardis Gras!

Jambalaya is a dish steeped in ambiguity. So much so, you can stir up heated discussions regarding just the root of the word "jambalaya!" One theory is that it comes from the Provencal word "jambalaia," meaning mishmash or mixture. Another theory is that it comes from the Spanish word "jamon," meaning ham, combined with "paella," the classic Spanish rice dish. The third theory is that it comes from the French "jambon," meaning ham, with a contraction of "a la" and "ya," the African word for rice. And finally, it might come from the Native American Atakapa tribe's saying, "Sham, pal ha! Ya!" meaning "Be full, not skinny! Eat up!" 

If that's not enough, contrary to popular misconceptions, jambalaya is not specifically a Creole dish. In fact, there are two kinds of jambalaya. Creole which contains tomatoes, and Cajun which does not. I prefer it with tomatoes. I also think the key to a really great jambalaya is tasso. Tasso is a highly seasoned smoked pork. I am lucky to find it locally, but you can order some from cajungrocer.com. Andouille sausage is also authentic; however, if you can't find it or don't want to add it to your Cajun Grocer order, you can substitute Spanish chorizo, not Mexican chorizo, which is not the same thing. Finally, I would be remiss not to mention "the holy trinity." Similar to mirepoix and sofrito, it is the base to most Louisiana cuisine. It consists of finely diced onion, celery, and green bell pepper. I use red bell pepper because I detest green bell peppers in any form. 

Just like cioppino, it's hard to make a bad jambalaya. Jambalaya is very adaptable and can contain shredded chicken, venison, oysters, etc. Feel free to add what you have on hand, or prefer, to make it your own! If it gets too thick, just add some water! So celebrate Mardis Gras this year with a delicious bowl of jambalaya, lots of crusty bread, cold beer, and a bottle of Tabasco (or Crystal) hot sauce. Beads optional!

Sausage and Shrimp Jambalaya

Serves 8

Ingredients:

1/2 cup tasso (or chopped ham), 1/4-inch dice

14 ounces Andouille (or Spanish chorizo, or other smoked sausage), 1/2-inch slices

1/2 cup onions, chopped

1/2 cup celery, chopped

1/2 cup red bell pepper (or green), chopped

1 large garlic clove, minced

28-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes

2 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning 

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1/4 teaspoon cayenne, or more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

2 bay leaves

1 cup long grain rice

1 pound raw shrimp, peeled and deveined

Italian parsley, chopped for garnish

Directions:

In a large pot or dutch oven, brown the sausage on each side in batches, set aside. Add the tasso, onions, celery, and bell pepper to the pot and saute until tender. Add the garlic and cook one minute. Add the tomatoes (with can juice), stir and break up with a wooden spoon. (An old-fashioned potato masher works great too!) Add the stock, browned sausage, Cajun seasoning, thyme, cayenne, salt, and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 30 minutes. Remove the cover and raise heat to a boil. Add the rice, stir, cover and reduce heat to a simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. (Taste the rice to make sure it's done!) Remove the lid and add the shrimp. Cook for 5 minutes or until the shrimp are cooked through. Remove the bay leaves and serve with a garnish of parsley. Add hot sauce to taste at the table, along with crusty bread.