Pan de Muertos

Halloween is over. Now what? Let me take you to Mexico, for Dia de los Muertos or Day of the Dead. In Mexico, Day of the Dead is celebrated on November 1 (for children and infants) and November 2 (for adults), to honor and celebrate the lives of the dead. These dates correspond to the Catholic, All Saints Day and All Souls Day, brought to Mexico by the Spaniards. However, Day of the Dead has been celebrated for centuries, all the way back to the Aztecs, when it was celebrated for the entire month of August. Day of the Dead is a time to remember the dead, by cleaning their grave sites, adding flowers (particularly marigolds), gathering pictures, favorite foods and drinks of the deceased, and by eating sugar skulls and Pan de Muertos or Bread of the Dead. It may sound morbid, but it isn't. After all, wouldn't it be nice to know that you wouldn't be forgotten?

In honor of the tradition of Day of the Dead, I'm offering an authentic recipe for Pan de Muertos or Bread of the Dead. It is an exotic yeast bread, flavored with a hint of anise, sugar, milk, and eggs. Sometimes other flavors are added, like cinnamon and orange, but it is it's shape that makes it distinctive. Pan de Muertos is traditionally decorated with sugar, two "bone-shaped" pieces of dough, and topped with a skull or tear shape to represent sorrow. Something like this:

Pan de Muertos (Bread of the Dead)

Serves 14-16

Ingredients:

For the dough

1/4 cup butter

1/4 cup milk

1/4 cup warm water

3 cups all-purpose flour

1-1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon anise seed

1/4 cup white sugar

2 eggs, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons orange zest

For the glaze

1/4 cup white sugar

1/4 cup orange juice

1 tablespoon orange zest

2 tablespoons colored or white sugar

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, mix together the milk and butter until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat and stir in the warm water.

In a large mixing bowl, combine 1 cup of flour, yeast, salt, anise seed, and sugar, blending well. Stir in the warm milk mixture, eggs, and orange zest, mixing until well blended. Slowly add flour, 1 cup at a time to create the dough. Place the dough onto a floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. If the dough is too sticky, add a little more flour.

Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and set in a warm place. Allow the dough to rise until doubled in size, about 2 hours. Punch the dough down, removing 1 fistful of the dough and set that aside. Take the larger portion of dough and place it on a baking sheet, shaping it into a round dome.

Using the dough you had set aside, shape two small, long bone shapes to be placed on top the dome. Lightly cover the dough with plastic wrap and allow it to double in size, about 1 hour. Bake in a 350 degree pre-heated oven for about 25 to 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on wire rack to cool slightly.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, mix together the 1/4 cup of white sugar, orange juice, and orange zest, stirring until it comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and brush over the warm bread. Sprinkle with colored or white sugar. 

Recipe adapted from Texas Cooking Online.

Happy Halloween and Goulash Madness!

Want to go mad? Try finding an "authentic" recipe for Goulash! Goulash, which is considered to be a national dish of Hungary, can take many forms, depending on which region of Europe it is made. Goulash is not the hamburger helper-like ground beef/macaroni/tomato bastardization peddled by cafeteria ladies across the US. From what I can tell, Hungarian goulash is a beef (or veal or pork) soup, made with equal parts onions and meat, seasoned with garlic, paprika, caraway, and sometimes additional vegetables, like turnips, parsnips, potatoes, and peppers. Goulash is traditionally served with steamed dumplings or tiny egg noodles called csipetke (like German spaetzle), which are pinched off (csip means pinch) and added to the simmering soup. Traditionalists consider tomatoes a faux pas, as well as using flour to thicken the soup.

Goulash, or "guylas" meaning "herdsman," originated with the cowboys of the region. Comparable to what chili is to Texas cowboys. It's also important to note that paprika was not an original ingredient in the dish, as paprika was not introduced to the region until the 16th century. Let's add a little bit more confusion, enter "porkolt." Porkolt is a meat stew that also has it's origins in Hungary. Porkolt is a stew, not soup, made with meat, vegetables but not potatoes, and seasoned with the ever important paprika. In fact, most goulash recipes that I have tried (which is a lot!) are actually the rich porkolt stew. In addition, I've also read that goulash is soup made with leftover porkolt!?! Oh, and then there are "paprikas" (aka., Paprikash) which are made with meat, paprika, and thickened with sour cream. Feeling a little mad, yet?

Anyway, with Halloween almost here, I can't think of a better meal to ward off the sugar comas my kids are soon to induce, than a nice rich bowl of hearty goulash! This recipe is adapted from Wolfgang Puck's recipe for Beef Goulash. I found his version to produce a more complex and appealing flavor, from caramelized onions to the addition of a couple tablespoons of balsamic vinegar. Changes I made were to brown the meat first, reduce the amount of caraway as it is quite strong (note: caraway and cumin are not the same thing, nor do they taste similar), upped the amount of paprika, added a dash of cayenne pepper, and opted to serve it with buttered egg noodles rather than spaetzle, to make it a little more streamlined. Although this delicious recipe is more accurately a cross between goulash and porkolt, the name "goul-ash" is just more fun to say and perfect for All Hallows' Eve!

Beef Goulash

Serves 4

Ingredients:

3 pounds beef chuck, cut into approximately 2" cubes, seasoned with salt and pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 cups onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sugar

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, toasted and ground (don't leave them whole!), optional

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (can also use red wine vinegar instead)

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 1/2 tablespoons paprika

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced (if you don't have fresh, use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)

1 bay leaf

4 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup chopped Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped

Sour cream, for serving

1/2 pound cooked and butter egg noodles, to serve

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. In a large pot or dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When shimmery, add the beef cubes in batches, as to not overcrowd the pan, and brown on each side, adding more oil if necessary. (This step is very important to ensure a nice beefy flavor.) Set aside.

Reduce heat to medium and add the onions and sugar. Stir until the onions are caramelized, about 8-10 minutes. Add the garlic and caraway. Cook for 1 minute. Deglaze with the vinegar and add the tomato paste, paprika, cayenne, marjoram, thyme, bay leaf, stock, reserved beef cubes, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, cover and place in the oven until the meat is very tender, about 2-2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. If the mixture looks too soupy, remove the cover the last 30 minutes in the oven.

When tender, taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Stir in some of the parsley, reserving some for garnish. Serve over egg noodles with a dollop of sour cream and a sprinkling of parsley. 

For more Halloween recipes, check out:


Chocolate Orange Cupcakes with Limoncello Frosting


Witch Hat Cookies


Soul Cakes


Aztec Chocolate Skulls


Superb Squash Soup with the Best Parmesan Croutons

Roosters and Truffles

The last time I visited my daughter in Florence, we took a wine tour through Tuscany and Siena. Our tour guide told us why the black rooster is the symbol of Tuscany and Chianti wine. During the Middle Ages, Tuscany and Siena had to settle a land dispute between the two cities. The two cities decided to each send a knight to ride until they met, which would became the border. The start time for each knight was to wait for a rooster to crow. However, clever Tuscans chose to starve their black rooster, resulting in the rooster crowing far earlier than that of the well fed Siena rooster. The result was that the Tuscan knight rode out far earlier than the Siena knight. The knights met within 12 km from Siena, giving Tuscany most of the Chianti region.

After a lovely yet long day, we arrived back to Florence starving! We stumbled into Osteria Giglio d'oro to enjoy some pasta and Chianti. I ordered the mushroom ravioli with truffle cream sauce. So delicious! In fact, this is a common option in many Florentine establishments, such as Trattoria Za Za. Haha! (IYKYK) When I got home I did a quick search and found this astonishingly easy recipe from Food52 for Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce! The recipe calls for salsa tartufada. In America, you may find it called truffle sauce. Also, I prefer tartufada made with some mushrooms, as some versions use some black olives. So read the label. Also, I prefer this recipe with mushroom ravioli. Mangia!

Ravioli with Truffle Cream Sauce

Serves 2

Ingredients:

2 Tablespoons butter

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 Tablespoon salsa tartufada (truffle sauce)

1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano 

8 fresh ravioli (I prefer mushroom ravioli and use 10 for two people.)

Directions:

In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. Once melted, add the cream and tartufada. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the Parmigiano and stir.

Meanwhile, cook ravioli according to package recommendations. When done, add to the sauce with 1-2 tablespoons pasta water. Simmer one more minute. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve on plates.

Creamy Tuscan Chicken

I love visiting Tuscany! It truly is a magical land that sings to your soul. One of my lucky daughters lived in Florence for two years! I am sure she would be happy to stay there forever!

In those two years, I studied everything about the cuisine to soothe my loneliness. Very simple farm to table faire. So when I came across this recipe for "Creamy Tuscan Chicken," I was intrigued. This recipe is not a Tuscan recipe, rather an Italian-American creation inspired by Olive Garden and Catherine de' Medici. Catherine, from Florence, married King Henry II  in 1547. When she moved to France, she brought her chefs with her and her love of spinach. However, that is just speculation.

This delicious recipe is a weekday staple in my house due to the convenience of one pan cooking. I have successfully halved this recipe, and I am sure it could even be doubled for a larger crowd. You would have to use two pans though. Serve it with a salad, Chianti, and a warm baguette for a cozy dinner. Mangia! 

Creamy Tuscan Chicken

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 Tablespoon olive oil

4 boneless skinless chicken breasts, gently pounded to approximately the same thickness

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3 Tablespoon butter

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 1/2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved

3 cups baby spinach, stems removed

1/2 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup freshly grated parmesan

lemon wedges, for serving

Directions:

In a skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the chicken and season with salt and pepper and oregano. Cook until golden and no longer pink, approximately 5 minutes a side. Remove the chicken to a plate and set aside.

Melt the butter in the skillet. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, approximately 1 minute. Add the cherry tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook until beginning to burst. Add the spinach and cook until wilted.

Add the cream and parmesan and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Return the chicken to the skillet and cook until heated through, 5-7 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges. 

Fall for Cashmere Potatoes

The first frost of the season is predicted for tomorrow. Brr! Fall is officially here. It's time to resuscitate my beloved cashmere sweaters that have been whimpering in my closet all summer long. Hooray! In honor of the occasion, I want to share a wonderful recipe for "Roasted Rosemary Potatoes" from the king of Italian cashmere, Brunello Cucinelli. 

Brunello Cucinelli headquarters in Solomeo, Italy.

Cucinelli began his luxury brand in 1978, which now consists of the finest Mongolian cashmere, silk, suede, and shearling. His headquarters are located in a completely restored medieval hilltop villa in Solomeo, Italy. Complete with a castle, church, piazza, and amphitheater, it also contains what can only be described as the world's most historic and, of course, luxurious cafeteria. The cafeteria is decked out with crest-bearing china, bottles of local wine, and Cucinelli's own olive oil. However, the food is not created by world-famous chefs, rather three Umbrian women who make everything from scratch and traditional, like these potatoes. 

This recipe caught my eye because the potatoes are parcooked in vinegar water, which sets the starches prior to baking. They are then tossed with garlic, rosemary, olive oil, salt, pepper, and white wine. The result is a more refined and elegant dish that has become a favorite in my household. I make them whenever I roast pork, and always with Arista (Tuscan Roast Pork Loin). While the Cucinelli brand is far beyond my means (Thank God for JCrew), I can always make this luxurious recipe and dream.

Roasted Rosemary Potatoes (aka., Cashmere Potatoes)

Serves 8

Ingredients:

1 cup distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup Kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

3 pounds waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold; about 5), peeled, cut into 3/4" wedges

4 garlic cloves, smashed

6 small sprigs of rosemary

1/4 cup dry white wine (*Cooking Tip: You can always use shelf-stable Vermouth, which I always have tucked away in my kitchen.)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Bring vinegar, 1/4 cup salt, and 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add potatoes and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes; drain.

Transfer potatoes to a large rimmed baking sheet and toss with garlic, rosemary, wine, and oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast potatoes, tossing occasionally, until completely tender and just beginning to brown, 35-45 minutes. 

Recipe from the June 2013 Bon Appetit.

Sugar and Spice Makes Everything Nice!

Concluding my "Chilly Chile Menu," which started with an exciting Southwest Caesar Salad followed by a comforting Green Chile Chicken Lasagna with Goat Cheese, I wanted to end this heart warming menu with a spectacular dessert, specifically "Bissinger's Chocolate Cinnamon Chile Cake!" Bissinger's Handcrafted Chocolatier has been a venerable St. Louis institution since 1927, with a long history dating back to the early 1600's France, when the Bissinger family was honored the title of "Confiseur Imperial" or "Confectioner of the Empire" by King Louis XIV! Who better than Bissinger's to create this enlivening cake with just a hint of cayenne chile pepper to give it that "je ne sais quoi?" This recipe is so simple and a refreshing change to traditional chocolate desserts. Bissinger's suggests serving this dense chocolate concoction at room temperature with custard sauce, warmed along side thinned orange marmalade, or with fruit sauce and berries. This cake is so addictive and the perfect ending to any Mexican or Southwestern menu. Once you try it, it will become part of your permanent repertoire!

Bissinger's Chocolate Cinnamon Chile Cake

Serves 8-10

Ingredients:

8 ounces Bissinger's 75% Dark Chocolate (Don't tell, but I used Ghirardelli chips!)
8 ounces butter, at room temperature
4 eggs, at room temperature
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Butter and dust with flour a 9" cake pan with sides at least 2" high. Line the bottom with parchment paper (cut to fit).

Melt chocolate in microwave (carefully, 30 seconds at a time, stirring until melted but not hot) or in a double boiler.

In a mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed for 4 minutes until well blended and lightened in color. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat for one minute after each addition. (If the mixture looks curdled, don't worry, it will come back when flour is added.) Reduce speed to low and pour in cooled chocolate. Mix just until blended.

Combine flour, cayenne and cinnamon. Add to chocolate mixture and mix on lowest speed just until blended. Remove bowl from mixer and lightly fold batter together. Pour into prepared pan.

Place on rack in preheated oven. Bake 25-30 minutes until it loses its sheen and rises slightly. (It took 35 minutes for my oven, for a toothpick to come out clean.) Remove from the oven and allow to cool on wire rack. 

Cool completely before removing from pan. Invert to another serving plate, remove parchment, and dust with cocoa powder or powdered sugar. Serve at room temperature with custard sauce, warmed and thinned orange marmalade (excellent with the spice) or fruit sauce and berries.

(It cuts so nicely!)

Recipe courtesy of Bissinger's Handcrafted Chocolatier.

Boy Bait

Want to make your man swoon? Barbecue him some ribs! I don't know a man around who doesn't go crazy for some good ribs! (It must be some innate caveman thing.) This recipe utilizes a basic dry rub of paprika, salt, sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, and pepper. The ribs are then smoked over a pan of water while maintaining a temperature between 300-350 degrees for about 3 hours. I know the temperature is higher than most "experts" would swear by, but it is exactly the way I make my Memphis-Style Spareribs and it has never let me down. I do brush these ribs with a little barbecue sauce (my favorite being Sweet Baby Ray's Sweet 'n Spicy) and wrap them in foil for the last 30 minutes. So ladies, push your man aside and make him the best ribs he's ever had! (Make sure you really like him, because he just might propose!) Coleslaw, potato salad, and grilled corn are obvious accompaniments.

Best Barbecue Ribs

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

For the Dry Rub

1/2 cup paprika

1/4 cup Kosher salt

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons garlic powder

2 tablespoons onion powder

2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

For the Ribs 

4 lbs pork sparerib slabs, preferably St. Louis style cut, if possible

3-4 handfuls mesquite and cherry wood chips, soaked in water

Your favorite barbecue sauce

Directions:

Remove the membrane from the bone-side of the ribs by sliding a knife under the membrane at the edges and using a paper towel, pull the membrane off. Gross! Mix all the dry rub ingredients in a bowl, and pat it all over the spareribs, rubbing it in well. Place the ribs in a dish, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or for up to 4 hours. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before barbecuing. (I also cut each slab in half to ensure they fit in my Weber grill.)

Prepare a charcoal grill for barbecuing over medium-low heat (300-350 degrees).

Place an aluminum drip pan half full of water in the center of the fire bed. Sprinkle some of the wood chips on the coals. Place the ribs on the grill rack over the drip pan.

Cover and grill and smoke the ribs, rotating them every 30 minutes or so (the ribs along the outside will cook faster, so it's good to rotate to the inside, etc.) and adding more wood chips, more coals, and more water to the drip pan as needed.

Continue to cover, grill, and smoke the ribs until they are tender and a toothpick can easily be inserted between the ribs, about 2 1/2-3 hours. Brush the ribs with a little barbecue sauce, stack, and wrap in foil for the last 1/2 hour.

To serve, cut the slabs into separate ribs and pile on top of a platter and serve proudly! With lots of napkins!

Feeling Ugly? Eat This!

We all know that we should incorporate more fruit in our diets. Not only is it good for your overall health, it's also good for your skin! Fruit contains high water content, which is good for hydration, and is loaded with vitamins and minerals needed to make you feel healthy and energized. And because fruit contains high levels of vitamin C, it will help boost collagen production, repair tissue damage, and protect your skin against free radicals! Now that's super food!

Honey has been used to enhance beauty since the dawn of time. Although the beauty benefits of honey are usually topical, incorporated into face masks, hair masks, and baths, etc., ingesting it will help you from the inside out. After all, you are what you eat! Right? The ancient Romans gave honey to their Olympic athletes to boost performance and endurance. Honey also has antioxidant and anti-bacterial properties, which helps boost your immune system and prevent disease. In addition, honey is good for hangovers, sore throats, and a teaspoon before bed helps you sleep! No wonder Aristotle called it the nectar of the gods!

Now that we understand that fruit and honey is good for the skin, so is mint! Mint is a popular herb used in shampoos, lip balms, and mouth rinses. But it is also found in many beauty products to sooth itching and infections, look for "menthe" on the labels. Mint has a high salicylic acid content, which is good for loosening dead skin cells, resulting in clearer skin. Mint can also help with digestion problems, such as bloating, and is also good for headaches, nausea, colds, and even the flu!

Want to feel better and look better, too? Try this "Fruit Salad with Honey, Lime and Mint!" This is the perfect refreshing summer salad! In fact, it's the only way I can get my fruit-phobic husband to eat his fruit! I recently served this along side chiles rellenos, instead of the typical beans and rice. It was delicious and kept the meal from being heavy or unctuous. Feel free to use any fruit you prefer or have on hand, e.g., berries, kiwi, honeydew, etc. Add this simple recipe to your repertoire and you will have no problem eating your way to healthier skin!

Fruit Salad with Honey, Lime, and Mint

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:
5-6 cups fruit, cut into bite-size pieces (I use 1 whole cantaloupe and 1 pint strawberries)

3 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon lime zest
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

Directions:
Place all the fruit in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate until just before serving.

In a small bowl, mix the honey, lime juice, lime zest, and chopped mint together. Just before serving, pour the dressing over the fruit and gently toss to combine.

Recipe slightly adapted from Ellie Krieger.

Remember the Alamo!

I think everyone has a place where they instinctually feel at home, for me that is central and south Texas. The kindness and generosity of the people is truly infectious, and not surprising due to the long history of the area! Let's start with the beautiful city of San Antonio! In 1691, a group of Spanish explorers and missionaries came upon the river and Native American settlement on June 13, the feast day of Saint Anthony of Padova, Italy, and named the place and river "San Antonio" in his honor. Following several Spanish missions established in the area, from 1718 through 1731, sixteen families who had been colonists in the Canary Islands, arrived in San Antonio, by royal decree of the King of Spain, and founded La Villa de San Fernando, and established the first civil government in Texas and the San Fernando Cathedral (built between 1738-1750). The San Fernando Cathedral is the oldest cathedral in the United States, and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. In addition, the Cathedral is the resting place of the fallen heroes of the Alamo, including Davy Crockett, William Travis, and Jim Bowie. If you ever find yourself in San Antonio, besides visiting the Alamo, the San Fernando Cathedral should be on your list!

View of the San Fernando Cathedral from my amazing terrace at the Drury Plaza - San Antonio Riverwalk located in the restored Alamo National Bank Building, Room 971, in the San Fernando Tower! (Great Hotel Room!) 

My favorite part of San Antonio is the enchanting San Antonio Riverwalk, aka., Paseo Del Rio. The San Antonio Riverwalk was transformed in the 1920s, diverting the river's flow and paving over the riverbanks, creating a pedestrian mall, home to galleries, shops, and restaurants, it is a must-see! The oldest restaurant along the Riverwalk is Casa Rio. The restaurant founded in 1946, sits on land first granted title in 1777 by the King of Spain. The existing Spanish Colonial hacienda became the core of Casa Rio, where the huge cedar door and window lintels, the fireplace, and the thick rock walls, are still evident. Although the food is typical, sub-par tourist faire, like most along the Riverwalk, Casa Rio is definitely a place to visit.

View of Casa Rio from the Commerce Street Bridge, the first bridge built to span the river!

So, in honor of San Antonio, I made a classic "Chiles Rellenos," found on any self-respecting Mexican menu! Chiles Rellenos, or stuffed chiles, are one of the most emblematic dishes in Mexican cuisine, with origins dating back to the Spanish conquest of Mexico in the 16th century. It consists of roasted poblano chiles stuffed with cheese or meats and covered in an egg batter, fried, and served with a light tomato broth. Because the chiles relleno is traditionally made with poblano chiles, a term used to refer to people and things from the city and state of Puebla, it is widely considered to have originated in Puebla, and is rumored to have been created by the local nuns! This delicious cheese stuffed version is truly simple, no toothpicks, no dipping, no freezing, if you've never made chiles rellenos before, this is your recipe! You'll love it!

Chiles Rellenos

Serves 4

Ingredients:
For the Salsa
1 pound Roma tomatoes, cored and halved
1/2 medium white onion, cut into 1/2" slices
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 medium serrano chile, stemmed
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lime juice, or more to taste
1 teaspoon Kosher salt, or more to taste

For the Chiles Rellenos
5 medium poblano chiles (I always make an extra one, just in case one tears beyond repair)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to season chiles
8 ounces (about 3 cups) shredded Monterey Jack, Chihuahua, or queso Oaxaca cheese
Flour for dusting stuffed poblanos
4 large eggs, separated
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, for the egg whites
1 cup avocado oil or light olive oil

Directions:
For the Salsa
Preheat your broiler and arrange a rack in the upper third of the oven.

Place the tomato halves, (skin-side up), onion slices, garlic, and serrano on a baking sheet. Broil until the tomato skins start to blacken and blister, about 7 minutes. Remove from the broiler and transfer the ingredients to a blender. Add the lime juice and salt, and blend into a smooth puree. Taste and season with additional salt or lime to taste.

Transfer to a small saucepan and keep warm over very low heat.

For the Chiles Rellenos
Lay 1 chile on a cutting board so that it sits flat naturally without rolling. Using a sharp pairing knife, make two cuts forming a "T" by first slicing down the middle of the chile lengthwise from stem to tip, them making a second cut perpendicular to the first about 1/2" from the stem, slicing only halfway through the chile. Don't cut the stem end completely off! Carefully open the flaps to expose the interior of the chile, and using a pairing knife and/or kitchen shears, carefully remove all the seeds, ribs, and any core. You can rinse the chile under cold water to flush out any extra seeds. Dry thoroughly with paper towels, inside and out. Repeat with the remaining chiles.

Turn 2 gas burners to medium-high heat. Place 1 chile directly on each burner and roast, turning occasionally with tongs, until blackened and blistered on all sides. Repeat with the remaining chiles. Check my "Techniques" tab for additional guidance on How to Roast a Chile. If you don't have a gas stove, place all the chiles directly on a high oven rack under the broiler, turning occasionally with tongs, until the chiles blacken and blister on all sides, about 8-10 minutes. When the chiles are blackened, place in a large, heatproof bowl, and tightly cover with plastic wrap. Let cool about 15 minutes.

Using the side a knife, can use a butter knife to prevent tearing, scrape away and discard the charred skins. Try not to tear the chiles! Season the inside and outside of the chiles with salt and pepper. Stuff each chile, trying not to tear them, with a quarter of the cheese (about 2/3 cup) and close the flaps over the cheese. Dust lightly with flour to help batter adhere. Set aside.

Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl until lightened in color and frothy, about 2 minutes, set aside. Place the egg whites and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on high until stiff peaks form, about 1 1/2 minutes. Remove the bowl from the mixer and gently fold in the egg yolks with a rubber spatula until just combined. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Check to see if the oil is hot by submerging the handle of a wooden spoon until it touches the bottom of the pan, the oil is ready if bubbles form around the handle.

Working with 1 chile at a time, drop about 1/2 cup of the egg batter into the oil using a rubber spatula to spread it to about the same size as the stuffed chile. The batter will puff up considerably, it's supposed to! 

Lay the chile, seam-side down on top of the mound of batter.

Drop another 1/2 cup of the batter on top of the chile, spreading it with the rubber spatula to cover the sides and encase the chile.

Cook without disturbing until the bottom of the chile relleno is golden brown, about 2-3 minutes. Using a spatula and a fork, carefully flip the chile relleno over and cook until the other side is golden brown, about 2-3 minutes. (If the sides of the chile aren't browned, using a spatula or tongs, carefully turn it onto each side to brown.)

When done, transfer the chiles rellenos to a cooling rack and season with a pinch of salt. You can place them in a low oven to keep warm, while finishing the remaining chiles.

Plating the Dish
Place about 1/4 of the salsa into four individual wide bowls or plates, top each with a chile relleno, garnish with a sprig of cilantro. Serve immediately, passing any remaining sauce on the side. Delicioso!

***You may also be interested in Chorizo Stuffed Poblano Peppers!

House of Tiles?... and What do the Swiss have to do with Enchiladas?

Casa de los Azulejos or "House of Tiles" is an 18th century palace located in the heart of Mexico City. The palace was built by the Count del Valle de Orizaba in honor of his marriage to Graciana Suarez Peredo. A later renovation added the distinctive Puebla tile to the facade, giving the palace it's name. The palace passed hands a few times, used as a private residence, a jockey club, a women's clothing store, and was occupied by the army during the Mexican Revolution. In 1917, brothers, Frank and Walter Sanborn, purchased the property to expand their drugstore and to open it's flagship restaurant, "Sanborns." In 1931, the palace was declared a national monument. Click here for an awesome look inside! (The music's fun, too!)

Sanborns is a fabulous place to visit and grab a bite to eat. In fact, this is the birthplace of their signature dish, "Enchiladas Suizas." Enchiladas Suizas literally translates to "Swiss Enchiladas." Why? Well, in 1922, Mexican President Alvaro Obregon invited fleeing Mennonites, mainly from Swiss and German roots, to settle in the northern regions of the country. In addition to cheap land and freedom from taxation for 100 years, the Mennonites agreed to supply cheese and dairy products to the region. Later that year, a whopping 20,000 Mennonites arrived and began making their cheese, known as queso menonita, which is now known as Chihuahua cheese! The current population is estimated to be about 80,000, and makes 80% of the region's cheese and 70% of its dairy products!

Enchiladas Suizas are ABSOLUTELY DELICIOUS! These chicken enchiladas, smothered in a green chile cream sauce and topped with melty cheese, are my absolute favorite! The name is a tribute to the Swiss cheesemakers who made it all possible!

Enchiladas Suizas

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the sauce
1 pound (6-8) tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 medium white onion, sliced about 1/4-inch thick
3 garlic cloves, peeled
3 serrano chiles or 2 jalapenos, stemmed
1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil
2 cups chicken broth
1/2 cup Mexican crema, creme fraiche, or heavy cream
1 teaspoon Kosher salt

For the enchiladas
4 cups cooked chicken, shredded
1/4 cup white onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups shredded cheese, Chihuahua or Monterey Jack, halved
12 corn tortillas
1/2 cup canola oil
Sliced white onion, for garnish
Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish

Directions:

For the sauce
Roast the tomatillos, sliced onion, peeled garlic, and chiles on a foil lined rimmed baking sheet, 4-inches below a hot broiler until the tomatillos are soft and blotchy black on one side, 4-5 minutes. Turn everything over and roast the other side.

Scrape the tomatillo mixture into a blender or food processor.

Process to a smooth puree. Heat the 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a medium-large (4-5 quart) pot over medium high. When the oil is hot enough to make a drop of puree sizzle, add the puree all at once. Stir nearly constantly for several minutes until darker and thicker. Add the broth and the crema, reduce the heat to medium low, partially cover and simmer for 30 minutes.

When done, if the sauce has thickened beyond the consistency of a light cream soup, stir in a little more broth (or water). Taste and season with the salt. Set aside.

For the enchiladas
In a large bowl, mix the chicken, onion, and 1 cup of the cheese. Season with the salt and pepper. Set aside.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat 1/2 cup canola oil in medium skillet over medium heat. Using tongs, cook 1 tortilla until pliable, about 20 seconds per side. (Don't fry them!) Drain on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

Spread 1/2 cup sauce in a 13x9x2" baking dish. Making one at a time, spoon 1/3 cup of the chicken mixture in the center of each tortilla. Roll up tortilla and arrange seam side down in baking dish.

When all the enchiladas are nestled in neatly, cover with the remaining sauce and sprinkle with the remaining cheese.

Bake the enchiladas until heated through and the cheese is melted, about 30 minutes. Garnish with the sliced onion and cilantro. Serve immediately. You're going to LOVE it!

Singing Canaries and Beastly Dogs?

When I first found this recipe for "Pollo Con Migas y Limon (Chicken with Bread Bits and Lemon)," from Penelope Casas, a well respected authority of Spanish cuisine, I saw that it was a traditional recipe from the Canary Islands. This immediately grabbed my attention! After all, the original founders of San Antonio, Texas (one of my most beloved cities, for more see Remember the Alamo!) were transported from Spain's Canary Islands in 1731, to join the existing military/mission community and populate the province of Texas. At the time, low prices in the sugar market caused a severe recession to the islands' sugar-based economy. The decline was caused by successful sugar production in Spain's American territories. It sucks when a government ruins their own economy!

Anyway, although people correctly associate the Canary Islands with canary birds (which were originally brownish green when found on the islands and highly prized for their beautiful singing), the Canary Islands were actually named for their infestation of particularly large and vicious dogs, from the Latin word "canis" meaning dog. Dogs are even present on the Canary Islands Coat of Arms!

So, the islands were named after the beastly dogs, and the birds were named after the islands. Got it?

While this recipe calls for a larger bird, specifically chicken, the addition of ham, onions, and a little white wine makes a very fine dish indeed! Fried bread bits (known as migas and traditional in Spanish cuisine) are perfect to soak up the wonderful flavors of the sauce! Chopped parsley and a touch of lemon brightens the flavors and balances this savory dish! Although this isn't the most beautiful entree to grace your table, no one will care when they taste it! It makes a surprisingly wonderful meal that you will be proud to serve family and friends! I like to serve it with oven roasted potatoes tossed with olive oil, salt, pepper, and a generous pinch of paprika! Yum! What to drink? A Spanish wine, of course!

Pollo Con Migas y Limon (Chicken with Bread Bits and Lemon)

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 cup bread without crusts, torn or cut roughly into 1/2" pieces

2 tablespoons plus 1-2 teaspoons olive oil

1, 3-3 1/2 pound chicken, cut into serving pieces (Chicken thighs also work well.)

Salt

Flour for dusting

1 medium onion, chopped

1/4 cup chopped Spanish mountain cured ham, prosciutto (which is what I used and was able to find already diced), or capicollo (about 2 ounces)

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup chicken broth, plus more if needed

1/2 lemon, in thin slices

Minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Directions:

Place the bread pieces on a cookie sheet and drizzle with 1-2 teaspoons olive oil and bake at 350 degrees until golden, about 5 minutes. (It took about 10 minutes in my oven.)

Sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt, then dust them with flour. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a shallow casserole or large saute pan and brown the chicken on all sides. When the chicken pieces are nicely browned, set aside on a large plate. To the hot casserole or pan, add the onion and ham and saute until the onion has turned translucent. Return the chicken to the pan and pour in the wine and broth and scatter in the lemon slices. 

Bring to a boil, then transfer to a 350 degree oven and cook, uncovered, 45 minutes, adding more broth if necessary. (I added an additional 1/2 cup broth during the cooking time.) When ready to serve, sprinkle with the bread pieces and parsley.

Recipe adapted from iDelicioso! The Regional Cooking of Spain, by Penelope Casas.