French Snow Eggs

Concluding my exploration of The Bonne Femme Cookbook, by Wini Moranville, I decided to make the classic French dessert: "Floating Islands" or "Iles Flottantes." I've seen recipes for this in numerous cookbooks, which I investigated; and, it was brought to my attention that this recipe is not for Floating Islands, rather "French Snow Eggs" ("Oeufs a la Neige"). While both dishes are similar, meringue served on a sea of creme anglaise, Floating Islands consists of single round flat baked meringues, where Snow Eggs consists of several smaller meringues that are poached. I was intimidated by the thought of poaching meringue, but it was really very easy. In this recipe, I made Wini's "Creme Anglaise" (to serve as the sea), her "Chocolate Sauce Tout de Suite" (to dollop in the center of the sea) and her "Caramel Sauce a la Tricheuse" (cheater's caramel sauce, to drizzle over the "eggs"). The sauces were easy to make and my kids have enjoyed the leftovers over ice cream!

Overall, I wasn't blown away by the cloud-like meringues, which were bland, textureless, and basically just a conduit to eat three different sauces. I think I might prefer them baked, as in floating islands...guess what I'm doing tomorrow! I've included all four recipes below, and I think it's fun to make everything at least once. However, it's safe to say that my "Snow Egg" days are over. Thanks Wini, it's been fun!

French Snow Eggs (Oeufs a la Neige)

Serves 4

Ingredients:

6 large very fresh egg whites

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup sugar

1 recipe Creme Anglaise (see below)

1/2 cup Caramel Sauce a la Tricheuse (see below)

1/2 cup Chocolate Sauce Tour de Suite (see below)

Directions:

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the egg whites and salt on high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the sugar while continuing to beat to stiff peaks. Fill a large skillet halfway with water; heat to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Using two spoons, scoop up a mound of meringue, using the two spoons to make a small oval shape. (Doesn't have to be perfect.) Gently scoot the meringue into the simmering water. Let them cook for 1 minute, then using a slotted spoon, turn them and cook until delicately firm but not sticky, about 1 more minute.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meringues to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Continue until you have 12 meringues (or "eggs). To serve: Divide the chilled creme anglaise evenly in each of 4 serving bowls. Dollop a tablespoon of chocolate sauce in the center of each bowl. Arrange 3 meringues in each bowl, and thinly drizzle with the caramel sauce. Serve.

Creme Anglaise

Makes 1 cup

Ingredients:

1 cup half-and-half

1/2 vanilla bean or 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

3 large egg yolks

1/4 cup sugar

Pinch of salt

Directions:

Place the half-and-half in a medium-size saucepan. If using the vanilla bean, half, split it lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the saucepan, then drop in the pod. Heat over medium heat just until steaming. Remove from the heat and let steep for 15 minutes.

In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt until thick and lemon colored. Slowly whisk the warm half-and-half into the egg mixture. Return the custard to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla extract (if you didn't use a bean). Strain the sauce into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Caramel Sauce a la Tricheuse

Makes 1 1/2 cups

Ingredients:

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Directions:

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, combine the butter, brown sugar, cream, and corn syrup. Bring to a boil, stirring to combine the ingredients as they heat. Reduce the heat to medium and cook at an active simmer for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla extract. Let cool to a warm temperature to serve. Cover and refrigerate any leftovers for up to 2 weeks; re-heat gently to a pourable consistency to serve.

Chocolate Sauce Tout de Suite

Makes 1 1/4 cups

Ingredients:

2/3 cup Dutch-processed cocoa powder

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

1/4 cup light corn syrup

1 tablespoon butter

Directions:

Sift the cocoa into a heatproof mixing bowl. In a heavy saucepan, stir together the cream and brown sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved. Stir in the corn syrup and bring to a full boil. Slowly pour the cream mixture into the mixing bowl with the cocoa, whisking as you pour. Then, whisk in the butter until the butter is melted and the sauce is perfectly smooth. Serve warm. Cover and refrigerate any leftover sauce for up to 1 week; reheat in the microwave to use.

The Bonne Femme

Over the weekend I took my kids to the library, and of course, I had to check out the cookbooks! After careful consideration, I checked out the Bonne Femme Cookbook: Simple, Splendid Food That French Women Cook Every Day, by Wini Moranville. 

This delightful cookbook was obviously appealing to me, being a "bonne femme" ("good wife") myself. Hmm...hmm. After reading it almost cover to cover (cookbooks are like novels to me), I whipped out my apron and began. The first recipe I tried was for "Hamburgers with Bordelaise Sauce with Mushrooms." I've never seen a recipe for a French hamburger before, and thought it would appeal to my American children. So, according to Wini, a French hamburger consists of a pan-fried hamburger patty covered with melted cheese (French, of course), served on a thick slice of toasted country bread, topped with a French sauce, and eaten with a knife and fork. How civilized! I found the Bordelaise Sauce with Mushrooms to be very easy and delicious; but, with the combination of the hamburger patty, it brought flash-backs of bad TV dinners, specifically, Salisbury steak. So, while I will probably keep making my hamburgers in American fashion, I will make this delicious sauce again, but serve it with a perfectly grilled steak instead! Mmmm!

Bordelaise Sauce Ce Soir

Makes about 1 cup, 4 servings

Ingredients:

1 cup low-sodium beef broth

1 cup dry red wine

1 small shallot, quartered

1 tablespoon snipped fresh parsley

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, slightly softened

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Variation for Bordelaise Sauce with Mushrooms: Add 1 cup sliced mushrooms, sauteed in a little butter, to the finished sauce and heat through.

Directions:

In a medium-size saucepan, combine the broth, wine, shallot, parsley, and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced to 1 cup, 15 to 20 minutes.

Strain the sauce into a bowl, discarding the shallot, bay leaf, and herbs; return the sauce to the pan. Mash the butter together with the flour to make a paste (a beurre manie). Add the beurre manie bit by bit to the reduced sauce, stirring with a wire whisk to blend away any lumps. Boil gently, stirring, until the sauce reaches the desired thickness, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

Filo, Fillo, Phyllo!

Phyllo (aka., fillo, filo) dough is flaky, tissue-thin layers of pastry used in Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine. The name phyllo originates from the Greek word "filo" meaning leaf. If you've never worked with phyllo before, it is easier than you might think! The most important thing when working with phyllo is to always keep the sheets covered with a damp kitchen towel. If you don't, they will dry up in a matter of minutes, break into a thousand shards, similar to a pile of autumn leaves. The second thing to remember is to use a very soft pastry brush to help prevent the sheets from tearing when you brush them with butter. 

A great recipe, that is very forgiving, is for "Tomato Phyllo Pizza!" This is a unique twist on any other pizza you've ever had! The phyllo layers are brushed with melted butter and a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese creating a very tasty, crisp, and flaky crust. Mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced onion, the most flavorful tomatoes you can find, like homegrown, and dashes of oregano and thyme make this pizza taste fresh and fabulous! A simple green salad with your favorite vinaigrette makes it a meal, but it also makes a great appetizer for parties! The pizza can be made up to 6 hours ahead, left at room temperature, and reheated for 10 minutes in a 325 degree oven.

Tomato Phyllo Pizza

Makes 1 pizza

Ingredients:

5 tablespoon butter, melted, plus extra for the cookie sheet

1, 17-ounce package phyllo pastry sheets, thawed to room temperature

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 cup grated mozzarella cheese

1 cup thinly sliced onion

2 lbs ripe, medium-size tomatoes, cut into 1/4" thick slices

1/4 teaspoon dried oregano

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Brush a large cookie sheet with butter. Take one or two sheets of the phyllo and place it on the cookie sheet, covering the entire pan. Brush the sheets, using a soft brush, with some of the melted butter. Add the next sheet, sprinkle with some of the Parmesan cheese, and continue buttering and sprinkling with the Parmesan until you have seven layers in total. (This doesn't have to be exact. You can have more than seven, if you wish!) It is okay, and maybe necessary, to overlap each layer to fit the cookie sheet. Crimp the edges around so you form an edge. Sprinkle the top layer with the grated mozzarella, thinly sliced onion, and sliced tomatoes, creating a grid of tomatoes. Season with the oregano, thyme, salt, and pepper.

Bake until golden brown, 45-50 minutes. Serve on a large tray or bread board, cutting squares with one tomato for each serving.

Recipe adapted from Bridgehampton Weekends, by Ellen Wright.