A Food Grinder, A Burger Fail, and A Luscious Ragu alla Bolognese

After purchasing some ground beef from a reputable grocer, in which I discovered bits of bone and God knows what else, I pledged to grind my own meat from now on! So, last weekend I purchased the food grinder attachment for my Kitchen Aid mixer,

various cuts of beef per Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home cookbook where he gives a detailed tutorial on meat grinding, and made his version of a hamburger.

Well, the meat grinder worked very well, but apparently I didn't get the perfect ratio of meat to fat (should be about 80/20% for a juicy burger), because my burgers turned out to be hockey pucks! ****! I'll keep working on it and fill you in when I figure it out perfectly.

After my burger fail, I still had about 1 pound of my freshly ground lean beef blend (sirloin, spare ribs, and chuck), so I decided to make "Ragu alla Bolognese." Bolognese is a rich thick meat sauce originating in or around the city of Bologna in northern Italy. Ingredients for this traditional sauce include ground beef, pork, and sometimes chicken livers, slowly simmered with the classic soffrito of carrots, onions, and celery. White or red wine is used to deglaze, then beef broth is added and some milk. The sauce sometimes contains tomatoes, which is hotly debated! When making a Bolognese, it is best to use a lean grind of meat and to let the sauce simmer and simmer and simmer for hours. In addition, it is always served with the regions specialty pasta of an egg-rich tagliatelle or lasagna, never durum-rich spaghetti which is from the south! Apparently it doesn't matter which Nona you ask, everyone says their version is traditional and the best! In fact, in the "Classic Pasta" Issue #110 of Saveur, they included six different recipes for this luscious meat sauce! Either way, set aside a lazy day and enjoy this hearty and lovingly made pasta dish with your friends and family! They'll love it and you'll never buy jarred or frozen again! In fact, make extra and freeze it yourself!

Ragu alla Bolognese

Serves 4 (as main course) or 6-8 (as first course)

Ingredients:

For the sauce

2 oz thick-cut pancetta, 1/4" dice (or 2 oz thin slices, diced)

2 small carrots, 1/4" dice

1 celery stalk, 1/4" dice

1 yellow onion, 1/4" dice

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 lb (250 g) ground (minced) beef

1/2 lb (250 g) ground (minced) pork (or use all beef, if preferred)

1/2 cup (4 fl oz/125 ml) red wine (I like Chianti in this recipe) (Serve the remainder with the pasta!)

1, 28 oz can whole peeled tomatoes, drained, seeded, and chopped (I prefer San Marzano, if available)

1-2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups low-sodium beef broth, plus extra, if needed (I like Better Than Bouillon Beef Base)

1 cup (8 fl oz/500 ml) whole milk

1 teaspoon Kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 fresh bay leaves

For serving

1 lb (500 g) fresh egg pasta (tagliatelle, fettuccine, or pappardelle)

1 cup reserved pasta water, if needed

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, freshly grated, for serving

Directions:

For the sauce

In a large, wide, heavy-bottomed nonreactive pan, melt the butter over medium-low heat. When melted and foam begins to subside, add the carrots, celery, onion, garlic, and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally  until all the ingredients are very tender, about 30 minutes. They should be a rich golden brown and smell like caramel. (If they begin to brown too much, reduce the heat and add a spoonful of water to slow the cooking.)

Add the ground meat(s) to the pan and stir well. Raise the heat to medium and cook, stirring often to break up the meat lumps, until the meats are lightly browned, crumbly, and their juices have evaporated, about 10 minutes. (Don't let the meat get crisp or dark brown, or they won't absorb the other flavors in the sauce, affecting the desired creaminess of the finished dish.)

Deglaze with the wine, scraping any browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Cook until the wine evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, breaking up with a wooden spoon, 1 tablespoon of the tomato paste, the broth, the milk, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and bay leaves. Heat until small bubbles begin to form on the surface, then reduce heat to very low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 1 hour. (If the sauce becomes too dry, adjust with extra stock.)

Taste after the first hour of cooking and add the additional tomato paste, if desired. Partially cover the pan and continue simmering, stirring occasionally, smashing the meat and vegetables with the back of a wooden spoon (helps make sauce creamier), adding more stock if it becomes too dry, for about 1-2 more hours. When ready, remove the bay leaves, taste and adjust the seasonings (salt, pepper, nutmeg), if needed. Skim off any grease on the surface. Cover and set aside.

Finishing the dish

Cook the pasta according to package directions. Reserve 1 cup pasta water. Add drained pasta to the sauce and toss well to coat, adding some of the pasta water if needed. Every strand should be evenly coated. Serve immediately, passing the cheese at the table, if desired.

Happy Thanksgiving and a Twist on Traditional Stuffing!

This year for Thanksgiving, my husband is going to smoke a turkey breast and ham, instead of roasting a traditional whole turkey. (Sorry neighbors, the smoke will be flowing!) Not only does this provide the option of turkey and/or ham, it allows me to use my oven for all the sides and desserts sans turkey! YES! So, while my Thanksgiving feast is straying from tradition, so is the stuffing. I first saw this recipe in the October 2013 issue of Real Simple for "Mushroom and Gruyere Bread Pudding" and just had to try it. After all, it has all my favorite things: mushroom, leeks, and cheese. Mmm! It was so stunningly delicious that I knew I would be making this savory delight again for Thanksgiving! In addition, it allows me to deplete all the random pieces of baguettes that I always have lurking in my freezer! So, why not throw tradition to the wind (along with some smoke), and mix things up with this exceptional recipe!

Mushroom and Gruyere Bread Pudding

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 leeks (white and light green parts only), cut into half-moons (see Techniques for more about leeks.)

10 ounces cremini mushrooms (aka., baby bellas), trimmed and sliced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 large eggs

2 cups half-and-half

1/2 pound country bread, cut into 1" pieces (about 5 cups) (I use crust-less baguettes.)

4 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Directions:

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook, stirring frequently, until beginning to soften, 3-4 minutes. Add the mushrooms, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook, tossing frequently, until the mushrooms are tender, 3-4 minutes more. Transfer to a bowl and let cool slightly.

Whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, and 1/4 teaspoon each salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the bread, Gruyere, and mushroom mixture and mix to combine.

Transfer to an 8" or other 2 quart baking dish. Cover with foil and bake until the edges are set but the center is slightly wobbly, 20-30 minutes. Uncover and bake until browned, 20-25 minutes more. Sprinkle with the chives before serving.

What else am I serving?

Cranberry Chutney with Orange and Ginger

Morton's Mashed Potatoes

Tom Colicchio's Pan-Roasted Carrots

Boursin Creamed Spinach

and for dessert:

Traditional Pumpkin Pie and Chocolate Ganache Cake

Italian Thanksgiving for 8

If you've ever made a traditional Thanksgiving dinner, you know it's a lot of work. And if you only have one oven, as I do, it really creates a challenge timing everything perfectly. Add relatives and it's enough to bring tears! But guess what? You don't have to roast a whole turkey, when you can make "Turkey Osso Bucco". I know traditional osso bucco uses veal shanks, but it is a wonderful method of preparing turkey, as well. The turkey is braised with vegetables, fresh herbs, wine, and stock, then topped off with an aromatic gremolata. Trust me, this recipe tastes as good as your house will smell! No one will miss the often bland roast turkey! To make it a complete holiday meal, I would start with an antipasto platter, then serve it with a simple green salad, risotto or polenta, or even mashed potatoes, and plenty of crusty bread to mop up the amazing sauce! Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc would compliment it nicely. End it with a slice of pumpkin pie and you'll have a unique and memorable Thanksgiving, with a lot less trouble!

Turkey Osso Bucco

Serves 8

Ingredients:

1 half-breast of turkey, cut into 4 pieces (ask your butcher)

2 turkey thighs (or 6 thighs, if you don't want to use the turkey breast, thighs will ensure it is moist and flavorful)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/3-1/2 cup all-purpose flour, for dredging

Canola oil, enough to coat the bottom of your pan

1 onion, finely diced

2 carrots, peeled and finely diced

2 celery stalks, finely diced

1 generous tablespoon tomato paste (I buy Amore Tomato Paste in a tube - great invention!)

1 cup dry white wine (I use Madiera - I love it with turkey and think it adds better flavor than white wine)

4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (or less depending on the size of your pan, see below)

1 large fresh rosemary sprig

2 large fresh thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

2 whole cloves

Gremolata

1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Zest of 1 lemon

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary

Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Pat the turkey pieces dry with paper towels to ensure even browning. Season the turkey with salt and pepper, then dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess.

In a heavy roasting pan or any oven-safe pan large enough to fit the turkey pieces in a single layer, heat enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan, over medium/medium-high heat. Add the turkey and brown on both sides. Transfer to a plate and reserve.

To the same pan, add the onion, carrot, and celery. Season the vegetables with salt and cook until they are tender, about 6 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the wine and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Return the turkey to the pan. Add enough chicken broth to come two thirds up the sides of the turkey pieces. Add the herb sprigs, bay leaves, and cloves to the pan. Bring to a boil, then cover the pan with lid (if it has one) or cover tightly with foil and transfer to the oven. Braise until the turkey is fork tender, about 1 hour and 45 minutes, turning after 1 hour.

When the turkey is almost done, combine the gremolata ingredients in a bowl with fingers. Slice the turkey (it's so tender, it usually falls off in pieces) and arrange in shallow serving bowls. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper (go very light on the salt, because the gremolata is salty), and ladle some over each serving. Sprinkle each serving with a large pinch of gremolata.

Recipe adapted from Giada's Kitchen by Giada de Laurentiis.