Crustacean Crush and Happy New Year!

Don't tell my husband, although I'm sure he already knows, that I have a major crush on crustaceans; specifically, crab legs! Anyone who's eaten crab legs with me knows that I can plow through them with efficient velocity! (Maybe that's why I prefer to enjoy these babies at home.) King crab is the obvious choice, but I would never turn my nose up to snow crab either. With their sweet, briny flavor and meaty texture, they are an excellent choice for any celebration, like New Year's Eve! However, I'm sure that I am not alone in buying crab legs at the last minute, frozen and without the time to let them thaw overnight. This is the kind of spontaneous purchase you make and then dread when you're not sure what to do with them. Well, I think I can help you out!

(The spoils of my most recent conquest!)

How to Buy, Reheat, and Serve Crab Legs

Purchase at least 1 pound per person.

It is recommended that crab legs be thawed overnight in the refrigerator. If you don't have time, thaw them under cold running water, which is usually what I do.

Unless you buy a live crab, the legs are already cooked. The main goal is to reheat the meat without overcooking or drying it out. Some people like to reheat them in the oven, boil them, or even reheat them in the microwave. My preference is to steam them. 

To steam them, fill a large pot big enough to hold the legs with enough water to come up about 1 1/2" from the bottom. Add half a lemon, one bay leaf, a few peppercorns, and 1/2 cup white wine. Insert a steam basket, like the cheap folding kind available at almost any grocer. If you don't have a steam basket, you can wad up some aluminum foil to hold the crab legs above the water. Bring the water to a boil over medium heat, then add the crab legs and cover. The crab legs should be done shortly after you begin to smell them, about 5-9 minutes total. Remove the legs with tongs and place on a serving platter. Serve immediately with necessary utensils (kitchen shears or shellfish scissors, seafood or lobster crackers, and seafood or lobster forks), clarified butter for dipping, and lemon wedges.

Clarified butter is also called drawn butter. Clarified butter is melted butter in which the milk solids have been removed. To serve 4-6 people, melt 1/2 pound unsalted butter (2 sticks) in a small saucepan over low heat. Allow the butter to come to a boil. As it begins to "sputter," it will separate into three layers: foam on top, clear liquid in the middle (this is the clarified butter part you want), and milk solids on the bottom. When the top foam subsides, remove the pan from the heat and skim off the top foam with a spoon. Pour the butter into a measuring cup and allow it to continue to cool. When cool, gently pour the butter through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into another measuring cup, stopping short of the very bottom of the butter where the milk solids lie. You can store the clarified butter in the refrigerator until ready to reheat. Reheat in a small saucepan over low heat until returned to liquid state. (Note: I do not recommend reheating in a microwave. I have had it explode numerous times, even when set under 10 seconds. It's makes a terrible mess and you'll have to start all over.)

What to serve alongside? Take your pick: buttered new potatoes, corn on the cob, green salad, toasted bread, etc. Although, if you are a true crustacean aficionado, the answer is always, "More crab!"

Happy New Year!

Romancing the Tin

Many years ago, before my first child was born, my husband and I visited Northern Italy. As we were young and broke, we backpacked across this romantic region of Italy. Besides the amazing architecture, museums, cathedrals, and breathtaking vistas, we fell in love with Caffarel Gianduia 1865 chocolates, (a sublime mixture of milk chocolate and hazelnuts). In fact, one of a handful of treasures we brought back from Italy, was a tin of these magnificent "boat" shaped confections.

In 1826, Pier Paul Caffarel began making chocolates in an ex-tannery located at the edge of old Turin city centre. In 1852, Caffarel introduced it's new confection, called Givu, meaning "stub" in Piedmontese dialect, which became known as the original Turin Gianduiotto. In 1865, during the Turin Carnival, Gianduia (the masked character that is the official representative of the city) handed out Caffarel Gianduiotti to the spectators. From then on, the character Gianduia became associated with the chocolate; hence, Gianduiotto Caffarel became known as Gianduia 1865. The factory has since relocated to Luserna San Giovanni (the birthplace of Pier Paul Caffarel). Here is a look inside!

So, when I ran across this "Giandua Souffle" recipe, by Giada de Laurentiis, I had to try it! These individual chocolate souffles, made with milk chocolate and hazelnut liqueur, are amazing! You want to know what the best part is? You can make them up to 2 days ahead, before baking! It's no wonder they wound up on my holiday menu! Well, even though my Gianduia tin is empty, I still have it and this treasured recipe! Buon Natale!

Giandua Souffle

Makes 6, 6-ounce ramekins

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon sugar, plus 1/4 cup, plus more for ramekins

1 tablespoon hazelnut liqueur (Frangelico)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 ounces milk chocolate, chopped or chips, plus 6 ounces, chopped or chips (this is by weight, click here for more on food scales)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup milk

Pinch salt

4 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees, if you are going to bake them now. Butter and sugar 6, 6-ounce ramekins, or more if using smaller ones.

Heat the butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, hazelnut liqueur, and vanilla in a double boiler over medium heat until the butter melts. (Click here for more on double boilers.) Remove the butter mixture from the heat, add the 3 ounces of chocolate, and let sit until it melts, about 3 minutes. Place the chocolate mixture in a pie dish and place in the freezer for 10 minutes to firm up. Use a spoon to form the chilled mixture into 6 evenly-sized  balls (truffles) about the size of a walnut. Reserve in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, place the flour in a double boiler and slowly whisk in the milk. Add the salt. Heat the mixture over medium heat, whisking constantly until thick, about 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks and continue to whisk constantly. Don't curdle the eggs! Turn down the heat, if necessary! The mixture will thicken to the consistency of mayonnaise in another 3 to 4 minutes. Like this:

Stir in the 6 ounces of chocolate and set aside to let the chocolate melt.

Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl or stand mixer. Using a hand or stand mixer, whip the egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add in the 1/4 cup sugar and continue whipping until firm peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the warm chocolate mixture.

Place a ball (truffle) of the chilled chocolate mixture in each of the ramekins.

Spoon the souffle mixture over the truffles and up to the rim of the ramekins. (At this point the souffles can be covered and kept refrigerated for 2 days.)

Place the ramekins in a hot water bath (a baking pan, filled with hot water, about 3/4 way up the ramekins) and bake until golden on top and the souffle has risen, about 30 minutes (40 minutes if refrigerated). (The souffles won't rise as high if they were previously refrigerated. That's okay. They sink quickly anyway!) Remove from the oven. (Click here for a tip on how to remove hot ramekins from a water bath.) Serve immediately. Delicious!

What's in a Name?

There is no finer roast than Beef Wellington, or is it Boeuf en Croute? This lavish dish consists of a whole beef tenderloin fillet slathered with a sublime mixture of minced mushrooms, shallots, and herbs, (and sometimes pate), a mixture known as "duxelles" in French culinary lingo, then wrapped in puff pastry and baked. It makes an impressive presentation which tastes ever better than it looks! Lucky for me it graced my Christmas table!

The origins of Beef Wellington fall somewhere between fact and fiction. It is standard lore that this elegant entree was named after Arthur Wellesley, who became 1st Duke of Wellington, after defeating Napoleon in the Battle of Waterloo. It is said that Wellesley had a love of "a dish of beef, truffles, mushrooms, Madeira wine, and pate cooked in pastry." Perhaps that would be something he had eaten while in France,... perhaps Boeuf en Croute? After all, duxelles were reportedly created in 17th-century France by chef Francois Pierre La Varenne and named after his employer, the Marquis d'Uxelles. In addition, wrapping an expensive piece of beef with indulgent ingredients sounds rather French to me. In fact, if Wellesley did create the rage for Boeuf en Croute, of course England would banish the French name and opt for one featuring their national hero.

Another theory is that Beef Wellington originated in Ireland, known as Steig Wellington. Steig meaning steak in Irish, and coincidentally was Wellesley's birth place. New Zealand also gets into the mix, apparently claiming to have created the dish for a civic reception. The funny thing is, there are no recipes for this dish until the 20th-century...and they appeared in America in the 1940s! In the 1960s, Beef Wellington became quite fashionable at American dinner parties thanks to Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking (1961), which included a recipe for Beef Wellington, not Boeuf en Croute. Hmmm?

Anyway, Beef Wellington may cost a fortune and appear time-consuming, but it is actually quite easy to make! I've made several different recipes over the years, and I've taken all the best components to create what I think is the best version. First, buy the best piece of beef fillet you can find. After all, it is the big ticket item and the star ingredient. In addition, save your money by not using wild or dried mushrooms, use standard cultivated button mushrooms instead. I recommend making the duxelles a day or two in advance, as I think the flavors deepen with time. Then comes the alcohol question. In my mind, it comes down to two, Cognac or Madeira? I choose Madeira. I also embrace the modern addition of a layer of prosciutto to help encase the whole shebang. Easily purchased puff pastry is the final component to create this succulent masterpiece. And finally, with a dish this extravagant, the sides should not be distracting. I serve it simply with pureed potatoes (aka., mashed potatoes) and buttered peas. It is elegant, sumptuous and guaranteed to please!

Beef Wellington (aka., Boeuf en Croute)

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the Beef

1 center cut beef tenderloin, about 2 pounds

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more to rub on beef

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Kitchen twine

For the Duxelles

1 1/2 pound button mushrooms

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots

Leaves from 2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

1/2 cup Madeira

2 tablespoons heavy cream

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the "en Croute"

12 paper thin slices prosciutto

1 pound puff pastry, thawed

Flour, for rolling out pastry

1 egg, lightly beaten with a tablespoon of water, for egg wash

Directions:

For the Duxelles

Place the mushrooms and shallots in a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Add the butter to a large saute pan over medium heat. When melted, add the mushroom/shallot mixture, thyme leaves, and bay leaf, and saute until very tender and most of the liquid has evaporated, about 8-10 minutes. Pour in the Madeira, bring to a boil, and cook until all the liquid has evaporated. Add the cream and cook a few minutes more. Remove from the heat, discard the bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the Beef

Tie the tenderloin in 4 places to help hold its shape while searing. Drizzle the tenderloin with olive oil and season very generously with salt and pepper on all sides. Heat the 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, sear the beef on all sides. Set aside to cool. When cool, remove the kitchen twine and rub all over with the Dijon mustard. Set aside.

For the "en Croute"

Lay out a long piece of plastic wrap (big enough to encase the beef) on a work surface. Lay out the prosciutto pieces, slightly overlapping, forming a rectangle big enough to encase the tenderloin.

Using a rubber spatula, cover the prosciutto evenly with the duxelles. Season the duxelles with additional salt and pepper.

Lay the tenderloin in the center of the prosciutto/duxelle rectangle.

Using the plastic wrap, pull each long side up and over the tenderloin, then close the ends.

You may have to wrap the whole package with a second piece of plastic to make sure it is secure. Place the whole package on a platter or baking sheet and refrigerate for 30 minutes or so to ensure it maintains its shape.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out one piece of puff pastry to a rectangle about 1/4" thick. Place the puff pastry rectangle on a parchment lined rimmed baking sheet. Remove the beef from the refrigerator, carefully remove the plastic and place in the center of the puff pastry rectangle.

Roll out the second piece of puff pastry, making sure it is big enough to encase the entire tenderloin generously. Brush the bottom margins of the bottom pastry sheet with the egg wash, then drape the second pastry sheet over, pressing the edges to seal well.

Trim the edges to make a 1" border. Crimp the edges with your fingers.

Refrigerate until ready to bake.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Brush the entire surface of the pastry with egg wash and make a couple slits in the top with a sharp knife to allow steam to escape. Bake for approximately 35-40 minutes, until the pastry is golden brown and the beef reaches an internal temperature of 125 degrees. Remove from the oven and rest at least 10 minutes before serving in slices.

(Perfect! This dish is supposed to be rare!)

Blue Christmas and a can of Febreze!

The holidays are in full swing with parties galore, but what should you bring your holiday host? The standard gift is a bottle of wine, and in my opinion always appropriate. However, during this festive season, a homemade gift alongside makes it even better! Instead of something sweet (like peppermint bark, meringue mushrooms, or lacy nut cookies), how about something savory, like "Walnut Blue-Cheese Coins!" 

These rich crackers are unbelievably easy to make (as long as you have a food processor), and can be refrigerated a few days ahead to be baked off when needed. I recommend using Roquefort (the king of cheeses and my personal favorite), Stilton (English classic), or Gorgonzola (for a mild, sweeter version). One note of caution: if you are planning to make these for your own holiday party, make sure to bake them the day before your guests arrive or they will be greeted to an overwhelming bouquet of funk! (Febreze anyone?) These savory crackers make a nice presentation when packaged in cellophane sleeves and seasonal ribbon. You can also attach them with ribbon directly to the wine bottle. It is a gift that you will be proud to bestow and your host will truly enjoy!

Walnut Blue-Cheese Coins

Makes about 30

Ingredients:

1 cup toasted walnuts (3 1/4 ounces)

3/4 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut in pieces

1/4 pound blue cheese, crumbled (2 ounces)

Coarse salt for sprinkling (I use French grey sea salt.)

Directions:

In a food processor, finely grind 1/2 cup walnuts. Add the flour, table salt, pepper, and baking soda; pulse to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add cheese; pulse until the dough comes together, about 15 seconds.

Transfer dough to lightly floured surface; divide into two equal parts. Using your hands, roll dough into two 1 1/2"-diameter logs. Coarsely chop remaining 1/2 cup walnuts; sprinkle over a clean work surface. Roll logs in walnuts. Wrap each log in plastic wrap, and chill until firm, at least 3 hours.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slice logs into 1/4"-thick coins. Transfer to ungreased baking sheet; sprinkle lightly with coarse salt. Bake until centers are firm to touch, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Store in an airtight container, at room temperature, 3-4 days.

Recipe from Christmas with Martha Stewart Living.

Suave Poivre

What's the best steak I've ever had? "Steak au Poivre," and I made it! Yes, I don't mean to gloat, but for my birthday menu, I had to pull out all the stops! Steak au Poivre is yet again, another French classic, that I adore and have been making for years! Basically, it is a tender cut of beef, like fillet, coated with crushed peppercorns and topped with a Cognac cream sauce. Yum! I served mine with mashed potatoes and harticot verts.

Because this is a fairly simple dish, the magic happens when you buy the steak. You must use the very best, highest quality, thickest steak you can find (aka., the most expensive). Now, I must tell you that depending on the thickness of your pan and the thickness of the steak, it is almost impossible to tell you an exact cook time, but I'll give you a good estimate. Click here for more information on cooking the perfect steak. Don't forget that you must let your steak rest 5 minutes before serving, which allows you time to make the sauce. Steak au Poivre is really easy, and absolutely delicious! Once you make it, you'll want to make it again, and again.

Steak au Poivre

Serves 4

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons coarsely cracked peppercorns (Use a pepper mill set on a coarse grind, or place in a kitchen towel and bash with the bottom of a heavy pan or rolling pin.)
4 slices beef fillet, each 1 1/2-2" thick
Kosher salt
1/4 cup (2 oz) unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup Cognac
1/2 cup beef stock
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (optional, but I like it)
1 cup heavy cream

Directions:

Spread the peppercorns on a plate. Moisten the meat very lightly on top and bottom with oil. Press the fillets into the cracked peppercorns, top and bottom. Push the peppercorns into the meat and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Sprinkle the fillets with salt. Combine the 1/4 cup butter and oil in a heavy saute pan or frying pan over high heat. Do not use a non-stick pan or you won't have any fond. (The caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan.) When the pan is hot, add the fillets. Reduce the heat to medium high, and brown on all sides, about 3-5 minutes per side. (When searing meat, be careful to avoid blackening the fond or your sauce will taste burnt. Adjust the heat to medium high, so it will sear but not scorch the pan juices.)  Place the fillets on a separate pan and place in the oven until desired doneness, about 5-7 minutes for rare, 10 minutes for medium rare, and so on. (Use the palm test!) Remove the pan from the oven, remove the steaks to a cutting board and let rest.

Meanwhile, pour off the excess fat from the heavy saute or frying pan and return to high heat. Remove the pan from the burner, carefully pour in the Cognac. Return to the burner. With a wooden spoon, deglaze or scrape the pan to dislodge any browned bits. Add the stock, mustard, if using, and the cream and reduce by half over high heat. Whisk in the remaining tablespoon of butter, taste, season with salt and pepper, if necessary. Plate the fillets and pour that amazing sauce over each. Proudly serve!

If you missed my Birthday Menu, click here!

Magic Mushrooms

"If you see a fairy ring,

In a field of grass,

Very lightly step around,

Tiptoe as you pass;

Last night fairies frolicked there,

And they're sleeping somewhere near.

If you see a tiny fay

Laying fast asleep,

Shut your eyes and run away,

Do not stay or peep;

And be sure you never tell,

Or you'll break a fairy spell."

          -William Shakespeare

Fairy rings (aka., fairy circles, elf circles, elf rings, or pixie rings) are naturally occurring rings of mushrooms. Centuries-old tales depict fairy rings as meeting places of fairies to dance and sing, and were thought to be portals to a magical kingdom where fairies and other mythical creatures dwell. For thousands of years, some people have believed that walking into a fairy ring could bring misfortune from either death at a young age (that's awful!!!), or the possibility of being trapped in a fairy world, unable to escape. According to these old traditions, the only way to be safe was to run around the fairy ring exactly nine times (never ten) while under a full moon. Wearing a hat backwards is also said to offer protection, as it is supposed to confuse the fairies. Really? Today there is little superstition linked to fairy rings; although, some delight in the notion that if you step in a fairy ring, you are granted a wish. (If you want to risk the chance of dying at a young age!) 

Whatever you choose to believe, mushrooms are enchanting and delicious when stuffed! This delightful version, stuffed with fresh goat cheese, sauteed mushroom stems, thyme, and shallots, garnished with fairy-size sprouts and a swirl of balsamic glaze really allow the mushrooms to shine! How enchanting!

Stuffed Mushroom Caps

Serves 6

Ingredients:

6 hockey-puck-sized button mushrooms

Olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1 shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red chili pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

3-4 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs (Panko works well, too.)

Handful chopped fresh parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

About 4 ounces fresh chevre (goat cheese)

Watercress or other sprouts, for serving

Balsamic glaze, for serving (can be purchased at most grocers)

Directions:

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Carefully remove and finely chop the mushroom stems, set aside. Set the caps, holes downwards, on a baking sheet, rub with a little olive oil, and bake 10 minutes to shrink slightly.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saute pan over medium heat, and gently fry the shallot until slightly soft, about 3 minutes. Add the mushroom stems, and cook until soft, about 5 more minutes. Add the garlic, chili pepper, and thyme, saute 1 more minute. Stir through all but a spoonful of the breadcrumbs. Remove from the heat, taste, and season with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, stir together the parsley and remaining bread crumbs.

Pull the mushrooms from the oven, and turn them holes skywards. Season with salt and pepper. Divide the cheese evenly among them, pile on the filling, then scatter the parsley mixture evenly over the top. Drizzle with olive oil, and bake until the tops are golden and the filling very hot, about 20 minutes. Serve with watercress or sprouts, lightly dressed with olive oil and salt, on the side and a generous swirl of balsamic glaze. How pretty!

Recipe adapted from French Taste: Elegant Everyday Eating, by Laura Calder.

Goodbye Summer - Hello Flatiron Steak!

Well, here we are, the last week of summer! I have to admit, after scorching heat and drought, I'm ready to see it go. No more futile watering, pesky mosquito bites, or walking around a little more "dewy" than I prefer! However, one thing I will miss is my recipe for "Ginger-Soy Flatiron Steak with Grilled Green Onions!" This more recent cut of beef, introduced in 2002, discovered by research teams from the University of Nebraska and the University of Florida, and funded by the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, is a relatively tender, economical, and flavorful cut of meat. The flatiron steak is one of the most tender cuts from the beef chuck, is similar to a blade steak, but it's been cut flat instead of across the shoulder blade, eliminating the tough seam of connective tissue found in the blade steak. Other names for this cut of beef are top blade steak, top chuck steak, book steak, butlers' steak (UK), lifter steak, and oyster blade steak (Australia and New Zealand). It's even been touted as being as tender as the tenderloin with the taste of sirloin, and has become one of the best selling steaks in the world! 

The flatiron steak likes to be marinated, and is simple to prepare using dry heat cooking methods, like grilling. In this recipe, it is marinated in soy sauce, ginger, and garlic, and cooks in less than 10 minutes! The grilled whole green onions make a nice aromatic accompaniment. Trust me, it is delicious! I like to serve it simply with a green salad or grilled corn on the cob.

Ginger-Soy Flatiron Steak with Grilled Green Onions

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the Marinade

1/2 cup (4 oz) low-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

2 tablespoons brown sugar

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger (I grate it on a microplane.)

For the Steak

1, 1 lb flatiron steak

12 green onions, roots removed, ends trimmed

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

Directions:

For the Marinade

Combine the soy sauce, vegetable oil, sesame oil, brown sugar, garlic, and ginger in a shallow, nonreactive dish just large enough to hold the steak. Stir until the sugar dissolves. Place the steak in the dish, turning to coat both sides. Marinate the steak at room temperature, turning occasionally, for at least 30 minutes, or refrigerate and marinate until ready to use, removing from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before grilling.

For the Steak

Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for direct grilling (over the coals) over high heat (400-450 degrees). Oil the grill rack. Remove the meat from the marinade, discard the marinade.

Grill the steak over the hottest part of the grill, turning once, until nicely charred and cooked to your liking, 4-5 minutes per side. (Do Not Overcook!) Remove the steak to rest. Coat the onions lightly with the vegetable oil and grill, turning once or twice, until softened and lightly browned, 3-4 minutes.

To Serve

Thinly slice the steak across the grain at an angle. Line a serving platter with the green onions, top with the sliced steak, spooning any accumulated juices over the meat.

My Date with Mrs. Crispy!

After coming home in a rush and no plans for dinner, I was introduced to the wonderful world of "Croque-Madame," via Thomas Keller's cookbook, Bouchon. Somehow the Gods were smiling on me, because I already had everything I needed in my fridge! Perhaps it was a date with destiny? Croque-Madame ("Mrs. Crispy") is related to the Croque-Monsieur ("Mr. Crispy"), with the addition of a fried egg and a heavenly Mornay sauce. The name is attributed to the egg resembling a woman's hat. Not only is this the best ham and cheese sandwich you'll ever have, it is relatively simple, and any leftover Mornay sauce means you can have another! French fries are the natural accompaniment. Trust me, this takes bistro food to a whole other level!

Bouchon Croque-Madame

Serves 4

Ingredients:

8, 1/2" thick slices Brioche, other egg bread, or pan de mie (about 4" square)

8 ounces thinly sliced boiled ham

8 slices (about 1/2 ounces each) Swiss cheese

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 large eggs

1 cup Mornay sauce (see below), warmed

Freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped Italian parsley

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

    Lay out the bread slices. (I trimmed mine to be exactly 4".) Divide the ham among them, making sure it doesn't extend over the edges of the bread. Place the cheese over the ham. If the cheese is larger than the bread, bend it over to fit.

    Heat two large ovenproof nonstick pans or griddles over medium heat. (If you have only one large pan, made 2 sandwiches and keep them warm in the oven while you make the second batch.) Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to each pan. When it has melted, add half the bread cheese side up to each pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the bottoms are golden brown. Transfer the pans to the oven for 2 to 3 minutes to melt the cheese.

    Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in a large ovenproof skillet and fry the eggs. Cook the eggs until the bottoms are set, then place the skillet in the oven for a minute to set the top of the whites. (We cook the eggs in 4-5" individual skillets.)

    When the cheese is melted, remove the sandwiches from the oven. Place 2 slices together to make each sandwiches from the oven. Place 2 slices together to make each sandwich and put each sandwich on a serving plate. Place an egg on top of each sandwich. Pour about 1/4 cup of the sauce over the white of each egg, leaving the yolk uncovered. Grind black pepper over each egg and garnish the eggs with a diagonal sprinkling of chopped parsley. Serve with frites, if desired.

Mornay Sauce

This luxurious cheese sauce is perfect for gratineed scallops, macaroni and cheese, croque-monsieurs and croque-madames, and crepes.

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup diced (1/4") Spanish onion

Kosher salt

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups milk

1 cup heavy cream, or as needed

1 bay leaf

3 black peppercorns

3 whole cloves

Freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground white pepper

1/3 cup grated Comte or Emmentaler cheese (Gruyere would work as well.)

Directions:

Melt the butter in a medium heavy saucepan set on a diffuser over medium heat. (I don't have a diffuser and it worked just as well.) Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Sprinkle in the flour and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring constantly so that the roux doesn't burn or color. (You may have to lower the heat.) Whisking constantly, add the milk and cream and whisk until fully incorporated. Bring to a simmer, whisking, then add the bay leaf, peppercorns, and cloves. Move the pan to one side of the diffuser, away from direct heat to avoid scorching, and bring back to a gentle simmer. (I transferred it to a new burner on low heat.) Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, whisking occasionally, reaching into the corners of the pan, for about 30 minutes. (If the sauce does begin to scorch, pour it into a clean pan - don't scrape the bottom of the pan - and continue.)

    Remove the sauce from the heat and season to taste with salt, a grating of nutmeg, and a pinch of white pepper. Strain the sauce, add the cheese, and whisk to melt. Use immediately, or place in a storage container, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to keep a skin from forming, and refrigerate for up to a week. If the sauce is too thick after refrigeration, it can be thinned with a little heavy cream.

Recipes from Bouchon, by Thomas Keller.

Pirates, Maroons, and a Serious Jerk!

The original "Serious Chicken," Negril, Jamaica

If you've ever been to Jamaica, you know that "jerk" is serious business! Jerk, the traditional Jamaican barbecue, is a process of marinating meat in a very spicy marinade and then slow-cooking it over hardwood coals. The marinade is a varying combination of green onions, thyme, garlic, citrus juice, scotch bonnet peppers, and a plethora of dried spices, such as nutmeg, pepper, cinnamon, etc., but it is the allspice (or pimento, as it is called in Jamaica) that makes jerk jerk. It's exotic, delicious, and very addictive! 

The word jerk is believed to have derived from the Spanish word "charqui," from the Quechua word for beef jerky. (I have also read that it comes from the Dutch word "gherk," meaning pickled or preserved.) According to Traveling Jamaica with Knife, Fork, and Spoon, by Robb Walsh and Jay McCarthy, the origins of jerk began with the buccaneers who used it to preserve meat. In fact, the name buccaneer was from the Arawak (the native inhabitants) word "buccan," for a wooden frame used to smoke meat. Eventually, the Spanish ran off the pirates and inhabited the island along with their slaves. In 1655, the British invaded causing the Spanish to flee, leaving their slaves behind. The slaves fought and escaped by fleeing into Jamaica's Blue Mountains (home of the legendary coffee) to live with the remaining Arawak and became known as the "maroons."

If you've never made jerk before, I have the perfect recipe for you from the now defunct Manhattan restaurant called, appropriately enough, Maroons. The marinade is not as fiery as some and incorporates espresso beans (a nod to the Blue Mountains no doubt) which adds another layer of flavor and helps to mellow the heat. I've adapted the recipe to use espresso powder rather than grinding your own beans and utilizing pork tenderloin eliminates the need to cook it for hours, rather about 20 minutes on a charcoal grill (which I highly recommend) or about 35 minutes in the oven. Mrs. P's Cornbread, made with coconut milk, is a perfect accompaniment and coleslaw (although not traditional) makes a pleasant cooling side. Although you can buy some good jerk marinades at the store (e.g., Walker's Wood), making your own will provide such stellar results that you will take it very serious indeed! Ya man!

Jerk Pork Tenderloin

Serves 6-8 (or halve the recipe for 2-4)

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon espresso powder

1 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

3/4 teaspoon ground mustard

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly groung black pepper

1 bunch scallions, trimmed and chopped

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

3 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

1 teaspoon seeded and chopped habanero chile (I use 2 serrano chiles, stemmed but with seeds intact)

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 1/2 pounds pork tenderloins (about 2, skinny end folded back and tied)

Directions:

Add all the ingredients, except the pork, into a food processor and blend well until you have a wet paste.

Place the pork in a large glass baking dish or plastic freezer bag and coat with the paste. Cover or seal and marinate overnight.

To cook on grill

Preheat charcoal grill. Place pork over heat and grill, turning every 5 minutes, until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 140 degrees, about 20 minutes. Slice and serve.

To cook in oven

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Transfer the pork to a rimmed baking sheet and roast until a thermometer inserted in the center registers 140 degrees, about 35 minutes. Slice and serve.

Home Away in Santa Fe!

Entrance to my charming adobe on Canyon Road!

I just returned from a spectacular visit to beautiful Santa Fe, New Mexico! I started my visit with a walk along the historic plaza with it's overpriced and mostly imported goods for sale. I then strolled along the Palace of the Governers, which is the oldest continuously occupied government building in the US, built 1609-1610. The Palace of the Governers is your best bet to purchase authentic Native American jewelry, which is strictly regulated by law. Along with visits to the St. Francis Cathedral, the Loretto Chapel with it's magical staircase, the Santa Fe School of Cooking, the Blue Mesa Alpaca Ranch, endless art galleries, and a road trip to Taos, my favorite part was staying in a hundred year old adobe on Canyon Road! Not only did it provide very comfortable accommodations for my family of four, having a kitchen provided a nice respite from what I felt were some pretty disappointing restaurant faire, except for The Teahouse, which was the best meal we had and steps from my adorable casita! 

After returning home with a heavy heart, a Navajo bracelet, and ristras in tow, I wanted a delicious meal that payed homage to the vibrant colors and flavors of my beloved Santa Fe. I searched through my spiciest cookbooks and decided to make "Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers" from Mexican Everyday, by Rick Bayless. While this recipe utilizes delicious roasted poblanos, it is the surprising addition of spinach that makes it truly spectacular! Rick suggests serving this with roasted potatoes, but I feel a light salad and baguette is all that's needed for a vibrant meal that echoes the Santa Fe experience! If I had a restaurant in Santa Fe, I would serve this!

Seared Salmon with Spinach and Creamy Roasted Peppers

Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 fresh poblano chiles

10 ounces cleaned spinach (about 10 cups)

3 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

1-2 tablespoons masa harina (Mexican corn "flour" for making tortillas) (or all-purpose flour)

1 1/2 cups milk, plus a little more if needed

Four 4-5 ounce (1-1 1/4 pounds total) skinless salmon fillets (snapper, halibut and catfish are also good here) (I didn't bother removing the skin.)

Salt and ground black pepper

Directions:

Roast the poblanos over an open flame or 4 inches below a broiler, turning regularly until blistered and blackened all over, about 5 minutes for an open flame, 10 minutes for the broiler. (See Techniques for more information.) Place in a bowl, cover with a kitchen towel (or plastic wrap) and let cool until handleable.

Place the spinach in a microwaveable bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, poke a few holes in the top and microwave on high (100%) until completely wilted, usually about 2 minutes. (If your spinach comes in a microwavable bag, simply microwave it in the bag.) Uncover (or open the bag) and set aside.

Turn the oven on to its lowest setting. Heat the oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium. Add the garlic and cook, stirring regularly, until soft and lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the garlic into a blender. Set the skillet aside.

Rub the blackened skin off the chiles and pull out the stems and seed pods. Rinse the chiles to remove bits of skin and seeds. (Fyi: I was taught to NEVER rinse the chiles under water, so I never do!) Roughly chop and add to the blender, along with the masa harina and milk. Blend until smooth.

Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of the fish liberally with salt and pepper. Lay the fillets in the hot oil and cook until richly browned, about 2-3 minutes. Use a spatula to flip the fillets, and cook until the fish barely flakes when pressed firmly with a finger or the back of a spoon (you want it slightly underdone), usually a couple of minutes longer for fish that's about 1 inch thick. Using the spatula, transfer the fish to an ovenproof plate and set in the oven.

With the skillet still over medium-high, pour in the poblano mixture and whisk until it comes to a boil and thickens, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. If the sauce has thickened past the consistency of a cream soup, whisk in a little more milk. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous 1/2 teaspoon. Add the spinach to the sauce and stir until it is warm and well coated with sauce.

Divide the creamy spinach among four plates. Top each portion with a piece of seared fish. (Or, if it seems more appealing to you, spoon the sauce over the fillets.) Serve without delay.

Who are you calling Shrimp?

People have been eating shrimp since prehistoric times. There are recipes from Apicius, an ancient Roman author, in his cookbook of the same name, compiled in the late 4th and early 5th century AD. Clay vessels with shrimp decorations have even been found in the ruins of Pompeii, from the 1st century AD. "Squilla" is the Latin word for shrimp, while the word "shrimp" is derived from Middle English "shrimpe," meaning "puny person." Don't let these little guys scare you! They may have high levels of cholesterol, but only 1/3 of that compared to an egg. In addition, they are an excellent source of low calorie protein, selenium, vitamin B12, and omega-3 fatty acids, which are all very good for you!

I love shrimp, especially grilled! This recipe for "Grilled Herb Shrimp," originates from the New York Times Cookbook. It is so easy and absolutely delicious! First you marinate the shrimp in an herby mustard marinade, then grill it up in a matter of minutes! In addition, any leftover shrimp are delicious cold as a snack,  perfect for jazzing up any salad, or for whatever use you may want! You can skewer the shrimp, as I did here, to make it easier to grill. If you don't have a grill, you can broil them, 3 inches from the flame about 2 minutes a side.

Grilled Herb Shrimp

Serves 6

Ingredients:

3 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup fresh parsley, minced
1/4 cup fresh basil, minced
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons Kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
2 lbs shrimp, peeled (tails left on) and deveined (For information on peeling and deveining shrimp, click my Techniques tab for a very helpful video!)

Directions:

Combine the garlic, onion, parsley, basil, mustards, salt, pepper, olive oil, and lemon juice in a non-reactive (glass) dish. Add the shrimp and allow them to marinate for 1 hour at room temperature or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. (I marinate them overnight.)

Prepare a charcoal grill with hot coals, and brush the grilling rack with oil to prevent the shrimp from sticking. Grill the shrimp for 1 1/2 minutes on each side, or until cooked.

Recipe adapted from Barefoot Contessa Parties!, by Ina Garten.

Sparkling City by the Sea and Fish Tacos!

I am actually on an excursion to my beautiful home town of Corpus Christi, Texas! This fantastic city, known as "The Sparkling City by the Sea," has a lot to offer! Besides stellar sailing, fishing, and bird watching, it is minutes from the stunning Padre Island National Seashore, which is the largest stretch of undeveloped barrier island beach in the world! If that isn't enough, it is home to the Texas State Aquarium, the USS Lexington, the Corpus Christi Marina, the Corpus Christi Hooks (minor league team for the Houston Astros), and the Corpus Christi IceRays, just to name a few! 

But, did I mention the delicious, super fresh seafood? And, with it's close proximity to Mexico, the fantastic Mexican food? Well, I'll fill you in on my trip when I get back! Until then, why don't you try this authentic and excellent recipe for "Fish Tacos!"

Fish Tacos

Makes 8 tacos, serving 4

Ingredients:

For the batter

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon ground arbol chile or cayenne pepper

1 cup (not the whole bottle) beer, preferably dark, at room temperature

For the creamy salsa

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup ketchup

1/3 cup plain yogurt

For the fish

3/4 pound red snapper, sea bass fillets, or even cod, skinned and deboned, cut into 8 strips, each 3-4" long and 3/4" wide

1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon ground arbol chile or cayenne pepper

Canola oil for frying

For the tacos

8 white corn tortillas, about 6" diameter (or flour tortillas, if you must...)

Salsa Mexicana

1/2 head of cabbage, finely shredded

8 lime quarters

Your favorite bottled hot sauce

Directions:

For the batter

In bowl, stir together the flour, garlic salt, and ground chile. Pour in the beer, whisking to make a smooth batter. Cover and let stand for up to 1 hour.

For the creamy salsa

In another bowl, stir together the mayonnaise, ketchup, and yogurt until blended. Set aside.

For the fish

In a non-aluminum bowl, add the fish strips, lime juice, garlic salt, and ground chile, toss to mix. Let marinate at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Pour the oil to a depth of 1" into a deep, non-stick, frying pan and heat to 350 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer, approximately 5 minutes.

For the tortillas

While the fish marinates and the oil comes up to temperature, heat a comal, griddle, or heavy frying pan over medium heat. When hot, stack 2 or 3 tortillas on the pan and leave for a few seconds. Flip the tortillas, rotating them every second or so until they are hot. Wrap in a dry kitchen towel and repeat with the remaining tortillas. They should keep warm for 10 minutes. If they are to be held longer, wrap a damp towel around the dry towel and place in a 200 degree oven.

Back to the fish

Pat the fish strips dry with paper towels. One at a time, dip a strip into the batter, allowing any excess to drip off, and carefully slip into the hot oil. Do not allow the pieces to touch. Fry until the strips are crisp and golden, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer to paper towels to drain. When all are fried, transfer to a warmed serving plate.

Serving the tacos

Put the Salsa Mexicana, cabbage, limes, and creamy salsa in separate small bowls and set alongside the fish, tortillas, and hot sauce. To build the perfect taco, place a tortilla on your plate, top with a piece of fish, drizzle with the creamy salsa, top with some cabbage, Salsa Mexicana, hot sauce, and a squeeze of lime! Don't forget some icy cold cerveza to wash it all down!!!

Keep Austin Weird!

In honor of my recent Texas road-trip, I am going to share an excellent recipe for Texas sheet cake, specifically, "The Driskill's 1886 Room Chocolate Sheet Cake!" The Driskill Hotel was built in 1886 in downtown Austin, as the showplace of cattle baron Jesse Driskill. In addition to being a legendary landmark of Texas hospitality, it is listed as a member of The Historic Hotels of America and Associated Luxury Hotels International. If you ever find yourself in Austin, staying at the Driskill will put you in the center of everything, including the Texas State Capital, the Austin Convention Center, Lady Bird Lake, The Long Center, Austin City Limits at the Moody Theater, as well as excellent shopping, dining, and convenient access to the colorful 6th Street Music Scene! 

Like Austin, known as the "Live Music Capital of the World," and whose motto is "Keep Austin Weird," Texas sheet cake is unique all it's own! You bake an incredibly moist cake in a sheet pan, and while it is still warm, you pour the warm icing over the cake! This cake is so good, it is a cherished recipe of the Heritage Society of Austin! In addition, because this cake is so moist, you can even make it up to 2 days ahead, covered and refrigerated! It's perfect for any celebration!

The Driskill's 1886 Room Chocolate Sheet Cake

Makes one 9"x13" sheet cake

Ingredients:

For the Cake

1 cup unsalted butter

2/3 cup water

1/2 heaping cup cocoa (unsweetened)

2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted

2 cups sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 eggs, beaten lightly

1 cup buttermilk

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 heaping teaspoon baking soda

For the Icing

1/2 cup unsalted butter

3 heaping tablespoons cocoa (unsweetened)

4 tablespoons half-and-half

2 cups powdered sugar

1 cup chopped pecans, toasted

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

For the Cake

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour a 9"x13" cake pan.

Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Remove the pan from the heat and add the water and cocoa, stirring well.

Sift together the flour, sugar, and salt, and stir them into the chocolate mixture.

In a large bowl, combine the eggs, buttermilk, vanilla, and baking soda, add the chocolate mixture, and mix well.

Spoon the cake batter (or gently pour) into the prepared pan, and bake 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

For the Icing

While the cake is baking, melt the butter with the cocoa in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the half-and-half, and heat it through. Mix in the remaining ingredients, blend well, and remove the pan from the heat.

Finishing the Cake

While the cake and icing are still warm, gently pour the icing over the cake. Serve the cake warm or at room temperature.

Recipe adapted from Texas Home Cooking, by Cheryl and Bill Jamison.

NICE RACK!

After a recent trip to Memphis, known for their amazing ribs, I wanted to give it a try! Memphis-style ribs are dry rubbed, smoked, and served with optional sauce on the side, coleslaw, and beans. After decided on which recipe I wanted to try, I began the nasty business of trimming the slabs of ribs. First you lay the slabs, bone-side down, and cut along the line of fat at the base of the ribs. Next you flip the slabs over and cut off the flap of meat in the middle of the rack. Save those portions to grill alongside the ribs. Lastly, flip the slabs over, bone-side up, and remove the membrane from the ribs by sliding a knife under the membrane at the edges and using a paper towel, pull the membrane off. Gross! 

This recipe calls for the ribs to be smoked at medium-low heat, which is 300-350 degrees. My husband was watching me, making me nervous, telling me that the heat was too high! I could tell he thought everything I was doing was wrong. He's like the barbecue police! So, when I served these ribs, I was delighted to hear him say, "These are the best ribs I've ever had!" Success!!! They had the perfect smoke ring, the perfect bite, and a fantastic bark! 

Memphis-Style Spareribs

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the Dry Rub

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1 1/2 tablespoons chili powder

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon ground celery seeds

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon salt

For the Ribs

4 lbs (2 kg) trimmed pork spareribs, in slabs

3 or 4 handfuls hickory chips, soaked in water

Your favorite barbecue sauce, to serve on the side (optional)

Directions:

Mix all the dry rub ingredients in a bowl, and pat it all over the spareribs, rubbing it in well. Place the ribs in a dish, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or for up to 4 hours. Remove from the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before barbecuing.

Prepare a charcoal grill for barbecuing over medium-low heat (300-350 degrees).

Place an aluminum drip pan half full of water in the center of the fire bed. Sprinkle some of the wood chips on the coals. Place the ribs on the grill rack over the drip pan. 

Cover and grill and smoke the ribs, turning them every 30 minutes or so and adding more wood chips, more coals, and more water to the drip pan as needed.

Continue to cover, grill, and smoke the ribs until they are fork-tender, 2 1/2-3 hours. (I stacked and wrapped the ribs in foil for the last 1/2 hour.)

To serve, cut the slabs into separate ribs and pile on top of a platter and serve proudly!

Recipe from Essentials of Grilling, by Williams-Sonoma.