Perplexing Pork

Let's be honest, people overcook pork! It was always the USDA standard to cook pork to a whopping 160 degrees. This was due to Trichinella spiralis, a nasty parasite that was prevalent in pork in the early- to mid-20th century. However, due to changes in feeding, hygiene, and strict meat inspection requirements, trichinae is virtually non-existent. So much so, that the USDA officially lowered the temperature recommendation for cooking pork to 145 degrees. According to the USDA, trichinae is killed at 55 degrees C or 131 degrees F. (Ground pork should still be cooked to 160 degrees.) With that in mind, we must consider that the internal temperature of any meat, when left to "rest," will not only let the juices be reabsorbed but raise the internal temperature. Even a small steak or single piece of chicken will rise at least 3-4 degrees, while a larger cut of meat, like a large roast or turkey can rise as much as 10-15 degrees. So while the USDA recommends 145 degrees, many chefs like Bourdain, Keller, and Ruhlman recommend internal temperatures of about 135 degrees and letting it rest 10 minutes, to create perfectly moist, delicious, and safe pork. 

Don't believe me? Try Ruhlman's excellent recipe for "Pan-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Garlic, Coriander, and Thyme." Pan roasting is the combination of two dry-heat techniques: saute and roast. Meat is first seared on the stove in a saute pan, then is turned and finished in the oven. Keep in mind that you will need a heavy oven-safe pan. I like to use my cast-iron frying pan. Love that pan! This is my new "go-to" recipe for pork tenderloin which can be successfully altered with different herbs and spices. It's a fabulous technique and the results are quick and delicious! Roasted vegetables make the perfect accompaniment.

Pan-Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Garlic, Coriander, and Thyme

Serves 4

Ingredients:

One 1 1/4 pound pork tenderloin

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon coriander seeds, lightly toasted and crushed in a mortar with pestle or on a cutting board with a pan, or roughly chopped with a knife

1 teaspoon canola oil

4 tablespoons/55 grams butter

3 garlic cloves, partly smashed with the flat side of a knife to open them up but not flatten them

3 or 4 sprigs fresh thyme, plus 1/2 teaspoon picked thyme

Zest from 1 orange

Directions:

About 1 hour before cooking the pork, remove it from the refrigerator and season it with salt and pepper and the coriander seeds. Pork tenderloins have one end that tapers. Consider folding the tapered end over onto the meat and tying it with butcher's string so that the tenderloin has a uniform thickness. (I tied mine.) Alternately, you can leave it as is (it will be medium-well done by the time the tenderloin is medium-rare), or you can cut off the end and save it for another use.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F/180 degrees C/gas 4.

Put an ovenproof saute pan that's large enough to contain the tenderloin over high heat. When the pan is hot, add the oil. When the oil is hot, lay the tenderloin top-side down in the pan. Let cook, without moving it, until it is browned, 1 to 2 minutes. (It took about 3 minutes for me.) Add the butter, garlic, and thyme sprigs to the pan. Turn the tenderloin.

When the butter has melted, spoon it all over the tenderloin and slide the pan into the oven. After several minutes, remove the pan and baste the tenderloin.

Squeeze it. It should still be fairly squishy (rare). Return it to the oven for another few minutes. Baste again if you wish.

Remove the tenderloin from the oven. The total cooking time should be about 10 minutes. The tenderloin should still be somewhat pliable but beginning to show signs of firmness. If you must, check the internal temperature with an instant-read thermometer; it should be between 130 and 135 degrees F/54 and 57 degrees C. (I must, and I pulled it out at 135.)

Baste the tenderloin again, add the thyme leaves to the butter in the pan, and set the pan aside for 10 minutes.

To serve, cut the tenderloin crosswise into slices about 1/2" thick. Drizzle some of the herbed basting fat over the slices and sprinkle some orange zest over the top before serving.

Recipe from Ruhlman's TWENTY, by Michael Ruhlman.

Trick or Treat?

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!

Yoko, Bento, and Not Boring Lunches!

I recently read a children's book called Yoko, by Rosemary Wells. In the story, Yoko takes all her favorite things for lunch, like sushi, to school and all the kids make fun of her, until, of course, they taste it! It's one of my kids favorite books! However, I was horrified when my kids told me their lunches are boring! Boring? After feeling a little hurt, I decided not only to give them more exciting lunches, but to start the art of making Japanese box lunches, known as bento. I have to say that at first I thought it would be difficult and another dreaded chore, but I actually find it fun and my kids love to help! So, in honor of Yoko, let me show you how to make my version of a California roll. Once you have all the ingredients and cook the rice, it is so simple, and far cheaper than any store-bought. Boring lunches? Not any more!

California Roll: Sushi 101

Makes 1 roll

Ingredients:

For the sushi rice (makes enough for 3 rolls)

1 cup white sushi (short-grain) rice

1 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup rice vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon salt

For the sushi

Bamboo sushi mat (available at most grocers)

Rice vinegar

1 sheet, Toasted Nori Seaweed (comes in a pakage of 10, 8"x7" sheets)

1/2 carrot, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks

1/4 English cucumber, cut into thin matchsticks

1/4 ripe avocado, cut into strips

Cooked crab meat, or imitation crab sticks (cut in half)

To serve

Soy sauce (save those little packets from take-out), pickled ginger slices, wasabi (optional), and toasted sesame seeds (optional) 

Directions:

For the sushi rice

Place 1 cup of uncooked rice in a sieve and rinse until the water runs clear. Transfer the rice to a saucepan and add the 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, give the rice a quick stir, reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook, undisturbed, until all the water has been absorbed, about 20 minutes. Set the rice aside to cool.

Meanwhile, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan over low heat and cook, stirring, until the sugar and salt dissolve, about 2 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the cooked rice to a wide, shallow, glass dish and spread it out evenly with a spatula. Slowly pour in the vinegar mixture while slicing the spatula through the rice. Do not stir. Cover until ready to use. If refrigerated, add a sprinkle of water and microwave until slightly softened.

For the sushi

Make sure to have all your ingredients ready. Including a cup of water with a splash of vinegar, to put your rice paddle or spatula into. This helps you spread out the rice without it sticking. In addition, some recommend placing a piece of saran wrap over the mat, but I think it's easier without it. It's up to you.

Place the sheet of nori, shiny side down, on the bamboo mat, making sure the edge of the 7"-side lines up with the edge of the mat. Using a rice paddle or spatula, spread the nori with the rice, a little at a time, until almost fully covered. Leave the top 1" of nori uncovered. Don't worry about the edges, they will be trimmed off anyway.

Place some of the carrot, cucumber, avocado, and crab down the middle of the rice. Don't over-stuff or the sushi won't roll up neatly.

Using the mat, roll and enclose the filling with the first roll and press gently on the mat to secure the roll.

Next, raise the end of the mat slightly to prevent the mat from being rolled into the sushi, and continue rolling until all the nori is rolled up. Gently squeeze to secure the roll. If the very end of the nori does not seal completely, dampen slightly with a little water to adhere.

Allow the roll to rest a few minutes to "set" before cutting.

Trim off the messy ends and cut into 8 even pieces. Sprinkle each piece with a pinch of the sesame seeds. If you're not going to serve it immediately, roll the sushi log in saran wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve. Simply remove the plastic, cut, and serve. It sure makes a nice bento box!

Lucky Kids!