Glamorous Gougeres

Gougeres (goo-zhairs) are a classic French appetizer made with "pate a choux" dough (see Mon Petit Chou) and flavored with cheese, traditionally Gruyere, Comte, or Parmesan. Gougeres originated from the Burgundy region in France where they are frequently served at wine tastings. How posh! Although they may appear to be some feat of magic, they are quite simple to make. In addition, they can even be made ahead, refrigerated or frozen to be reheated just before serving. Perfect for the holidays! 

Feel free to play with the seasonings, e.g., Gruyere and a pinch of cayenne or finely chopped thyme, Roquefort and finely chopped toasted walnuts, Manchego and freshly ground black pepper, and following my Texan sensibilities, sharp cheddar and finely chopped green chiles! (I hear French people crying, "Oh la vache!") If you choose the traditional version, you can serve them alongside soup for an elegant accompaniment, cut them in half and fill them with salmon or foie gras mousse, or even make them larger and fill them with Waldorf salad, or serve them with steak as a holder for your steak sauce like bordelaise, hollandaise, or bernaise. The possibilities are truly endless! You must add these babies to your culinary repertoire! You can thank me later!

Gougeres

Makes approximately 50 bite-size gougeres or 8 large ones.

Ingredients:

1 cup milk

1/2 cup (1 stick) butter

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 cup flour

4 large eggs

pinch of cayenne

1/2 cup (4 ounces) grated Gruyere cheese

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, bring the milk, butter, sugar, cayenne, and salt to a boil over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and stir in the flour, about 1/4 cup at a time, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon.

The mixture will become a big ball. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.

Transfer the blob to the bowl of a stand mixer, or large mixing bowl. Starting with the lowest setting, beat in the eggs, one at a time.

Don't add the next egg until the previous one has been incorporated. Beat until smooth and velvety. Stir in the Gruyere.

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat.

Using a pastry bag or two spoons, pipe or drop approximately 1" balls onto the sheet.

Using your finger dipped into a little milk, pat down the tips from piping, if necessary.

Bake for 25-30 minutes (or approximately 45 minutes for 8 large ones), or until puffed, medium-golden brown, and dry on the outside. (You need to keep and eye on them, and can check to make sure they are fully cooked by cutting one open.) When done, remove to a cooling rack and serve warm. (Some people recommend piercing each one with a skewer or toothpick to allow steam to escape.) 

*If making ahead, allow them to cool completely. Once cooled, they can be stored in an airtight container, refrigerated, or even frozen. To reheat gougeres, bake them in a preheated 350 degree oven for 10 minutes or 15 minutes if unthawed frozen.

"The Twelve Days of Christmas" and an Outstanding Coffee Cake!

Don't ask me why, but every time I make this "Cranberry Pear Coffee Cake," it always makes me think of "a partridge in a pear tree," from "The Twelve Days of Christmas." I read an interesting article by a man simply known as Chuck, who apparently did a lot of research regarding the origins and meaning of the song. I'll try to simplify what I read: "The Twelve Days of Christmas" evolved out of the popular culture of the Middle Ages and Tudor England, and is believed to be of French origin. It was sung and altered for over two centuries before finally being published to the version we know now. There is some belief that the song is littered with Christian symbolism (e.g., the partridge in a pear tree symbolic to Christ on the cross) to secretly teach children the faith when Catholicism was illegal in England. However, during the holiday season, beginning on Christmas Day, elaborate feasts, dancing, music, and partying were a big part of the holiday. Birds in particular were the preferred entree at that time, explaining why the first seven stanzas of the song involve different types of birds. I'll break down the song now:

On the first day of Christmas, my true love gave to me, a partridge in a pear tree. - partridges and pears common in England during the holidays, popular main course;

On the second day...., two turtle doves, - symbol for love and peace, given to be pets and show admiration;

On the third day...., three French hens, - reference to three main varieties of French chickens at the time (remember French origin), the Crevecoeur, Houdans, and the La Fleche, I'm sure all quite tasty;

On the fourth day...., four calling birds, - reference to "colly" or "collie" birds, (aka., blackbirds) which were plentiful and common food at the time;

On the fifth day...., five golden rings, - reference to ring-necked pheasants, (aka., golden birds) usually served to nobility at that time;

On the sixth day...., six geese a-laying, - common barnyard fowl at the time, kept to slaughter or collect eggs, and is still a traditional Christmas entree;

On the seventh day...., seven swans a-swimming, - associated with royalty and even eaten by royalty, in fact, by law (The Act of Swans, passed in 1482) any unmarked swans (nicks in the bill) were automatically property of the crown;

On the eighth day...., eight maids a-milking, - basically, code for "a roll in the hay" with an unmarried  maiden. They had to find a husband somehow!;

On the ninth day...., nine ladies dancing, - reference to noble ladies tearing up the dance floor;

On the tenth day...., ten lords a-leaping, - reference to leaping dancers (called morris dancers) who performed leaping dances between courses;

On the eleventh day...., eleven pipers piping, - common professional musicians at the time, not only in Scotland, but in England and France as well; and finally,

On the twelfth day...., twelve drummers drumming, - on the last day of the Christmas celebrations, known as the Twelfth Night, drummers were used in combination with trumpets, to announce the serving of the next course, especially the final dessert of "Kings' Cake," still made for Mardi Gras in the US.

So, now you can sing the song and actually know what it means while you make this exceptional coffee cake, loaded with tangy cranberries, sweet pear, and finished with a brown sugar topping! Perfect for early holiday mornings (kids!!!) along a nice strong cup of coffee!

Cranberry Pear Coffee Cake

Serves 6-8, *You will need a food processor for this recipe!

Ingredients:

For the topping

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon butter

1 firm ripe pear, cored

For the cake

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 cup butter, softened

1/2 cup sugar

1 egg

1 1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup cranberries

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and grease and flour a 8 or 9" round cake pan.

For the topping

Process the brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, and butter in a food processor until crumbly, about 10 seconds. Set aside. Using a slicing disc, slice the pear (may have to cut to fit in the feed tube, don't worry, it won't matter what the slices look like!). Set aside.

For the cake

Remove the slicing disc and insert the multipurpose blade. Add the sour cream, butter, sugar, and egg. Process to mix well, about 20 seconds, scraping down the sides of the bowl after 10 seconds, if necessary. Add four, baking powder and soda. Process until just combined, about 10 seconds. Add the cranberries. Pulse 10 times, about 1 second each time, until coarsely chopped.

Spread the batter in the baking pan. Arrange the pear slices over the batter. Sprinkle the topping over the pears. Bake for 40-45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

*You can make this coffee cake the night before, cover, refrigerate, and rewarm, uncovered, in a warm oven the next morning!

Suave Poivre

What's the best steak I've ever had? "Steak au Poivre," and I made it! Yes, I don't mean to gloat, but for my birthday menu, I had to pull out all the stops! Steak au Poivre is yet again, another French classic, that I adore and have been making for years! Basically, it is a tender cut of beef, like fillet, coated with crushed peppercorns and topped with a Cognac cream sauce. Yum! I served mine with mashed potatoes and harticot verts.

Because this is a fairly simple dish, the magic happens when you buy the steak. You must use the very best, highest quality, thickest steak you can find (aka., the most expensive). Now, I must tell you that depending on the thickness of your pan and the thickness of the steak, it is almost impossible to tell you an exact cook time, but I'll give you a good estimate. Click here for more information on cooking the perfect steak. Don't forget that you must let your steak rest 5 minutes before serving, which allows you time to make the sauce. Steak au Poivre is really easy, and absolutely delicious! Once you make it, you'll want to make it again, and again.

Steak au Poivre

Serves 4

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons coarsely cracked peppercorns (Use a pepper mill set on a coarse grind, or place in a kitchen towel and bash with the bottom of a heavy pan or rolling pin.)
4 slices beef fillet, each 1 1/2-2" thick
Kosher salt
1/4 cup (2 oz) unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 cup Cognac
1/2 cup beef stock
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard (optional, but I like it)
1 cup heavy cream

Directions:

Spread the peppercorns on a plate. Moisten the meat very lightly on top and bottom with oil. Press the fillets into the cracked peppercorns, top and bottom. Push the peppercorns into the meat and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Sprinkle the fillets with salt. Combine the 1/4 cup butter and oil in a heavy saute pan or frying pan over high heat. Do not use a non-stick pan or you won't have any fond. (The caramelized bits on the bottom of the pan.) When the pan is hot, add the fillets. Reduce the heat to medium high, and brown on all sides, about 3-5 minutes per side. (When searing meat, be careful to avoid blackening the fond or your sauce will taste burnt. Adjust the heat to medium high, so it will sear but not scorch the pan juices.)  Place the fillets on a separate pan and place in the oven until desired doneness, about 5-7 minutes for rare, 10 minutes for medium rare, and so on. (Use the palm test!) Remove the pan from the oven, remove the steaks to a cutting board and let rest.

Meanwhile, pour off the excess fat from the heavy saute or frying pan and return to high heat. Remove the pan from the burner, carefully pour in the Cognac. Return to the burner. With a wooden spoon, deglaze or scrape the pan to dislodge any browned bits. Add the stock, mustard, if using, and the cream and reduce by half over high heat. Whisk in the remaining tablespoon of butter, taste, season with salt and pepper, if necessary. Plate the fillets and pour that amazing sauce over each. Proudly serve!

If you missed my Birthday Menu, click here!